Brand new motor, blueish smoke ???????
 

>>> NOT SAYING THIS IS THE CHIP'S FAULT>>> ok so i just put a new bottom end in from diesel innovations, had my heads fully reworked by the local napa machine shop, added a GT38R, Adrenaline HPOP, and high pressure intake and intercooler boots. Truck runs great, have it on the daily driver setting from PHP. From about 1500-2000rpm driving down the road only the truck is blowing somewhere between light and medium thickness blueish smoke. doesnt do this at idle, doesnt do it in park reving it up, or anywhere above or below the mentioned rpm's. its oil burning but the oil level never drops. Have no leaks anywhere external. The smoke is lighter in my 120race than in my 80DD tune. >>> NOT SAYING THIS IS THE CHIP'S FAULT>>> just wondering if yall have ever seen this... Anyone have any idea what could be causing this?
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How many miles on it now?

Turbo new, rebuilt or used?

Have you checked blowby?

Did your old motor brake and push oil into the exhaust?

bout 150 miles, been doing it since it started back up. Brand new GTP38R. Brand new bottom end built by Diesel Innovations. And no my old motor grenaded a piston. It shut off tonight without warning and wont start back.

It's fairly common with a new engine as the piston rings begin to seat. The thing about cylinder walls is that they have to be smooth to seal correctly. A new engine has very rough surfaces on the cylinder walls that hold a lot of oil that the piston rings cannot get to (wipe away). Give the engine 1500 miles to get a bit of glaze to the cylinder walls and then see where you are with the smoke. It can also be valve guides or seals (I know you had them redone......)

Does your wait to start light come on and go off? Does your fuel pump turn on (you should be able to hear it run for 20 seconds when you turn the key on)? Does the tachometer needle move while cranking?

Let us know what you come up with on the WTS light and fuel pump and we'll go from there.

Yep wts light and fuel pump(pulled the cap on the fuel bowl and its pumping in like normal) are working fine, can hear the gpr under the hood. put a scanner on it and it threw no codes. Someone told me an idm box but i dont know how to check it and its way to expensive to just go get one to see if its the problem. Thanks

I wouldn't start throwing parts at it yet. What are you using for a scanner? I have some things for you to watch.

ive just got a lil cheap orielys scanner. dont have the money for anything big right now after all this just past. Anything i can just check?

Watch the tach to be sure it is jumping up while cranking.

Is the oil pressure "gauge" showing oil pressure while cranking?

Hows the cranking speed......... nice and fast with no flickering lights on the dash?

Tach isnt moving. Oil pressure gauge isnt moving. cranking is like normal speed, no lights. new issue is the rear cargo light is staying partially lit, "off" light in pass. side air bag switch is staying partially lit, radio is staying on, and some about 4x4" box with three connectors on it is clicking that is located in front of the drivers side battery box down behind the park light.

Check ALL your ground connections.

Especially the body ground that attaches to the rear of the passenger side head and is routed to above the heater box.

Also be sure the chassis ground is good, it is spliced into the ground cable at the end (driver side?) then bolts to the frame.

If they appear OK but problem still persists you can temporarily add your own by using a set of jumper cables from the engine to the battery negative, and from the frame to battery negative. This will prove that there is (or isn't) a ground issue.

Good Luck