Power Hungry Performance Forum - Boost related questions

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Boost related questions - stock turbo

So, this month I'm putting in a whistlin' wheel and bellowed up-pipes and the Dieselsite turbo-master... along with a few other non-turbo-related mods.

Some questions:
1) How much boost can the stock turbo live with? (I'm not looking to blow it up, but I want to get more out of it.)
2) If I dial the turbo-master up beyond 22psi, should I put a boost relief valve or boost fooler in there? (Looking at the Dieselsite BRV+ product for this.)
3) If I do the boost valve/fooler, I would put in an analog boost guage in the cab so I can read the actual boost number vs. what the PCM is being fooled into reading (22psi max). I'm running a PHP Gryphon 99% of the time on an 80HP tune. If I put in the boost valve/fooler, does this effect my tuning?

Thanks in advance for your wisdom! :cheesy smile:

Sometimes its just easier to find things, I'm at a slight advantage because I remember reading this a while back.

1) I'm going to pass this question, but here's an excellent post by Cody

Quote:

Originally Posted by cleatus12r

To elaborate a bit......

The stock turbocharger turbine housing (exhaust side) is very restrictive -- especially on the SD trucks from 99-03. It makes decent boost from a low RPM. This comes at a price though and that price is high RPM flow. If you can't get the exhaust out, then you can't get as much air in. On the other hand, the compressor (intake side) is out of it's efficiency range at anything near 24-26 PSI of boost. Anything beyond that does NOTHING for flow and everything for super heating the air that your engine takes in.

Take this example for instance:
When the stock turbocharger is creating about 25 PSI of boost, the drive pressure (exhaust backpressure between the exhaust manifold and the turbine housing inlet) is just above 50 PSI. Mine ran 52 PSI of drive pressure at 24 PSI of boost before changing turbochargers. I could easily break 30 PSI all day (but I never did it more than twice). The difference in drive pressure and boost causes a severe axial (side to side) load on the turbocharger shaft.....this kills the thrust bushing and causes turbo failure.

Any one of the aftermarket solutions (even including a larger, less restrictive turbine housing) will cause less strain on the thrust bushing and allow a higher volume of flow so the drive pressure remains closer to the boost pressure. This will allow the engine to breathe better and make more power....even on less boost.

If your PCM already has an aftermarket program flashed in it's memory, the Phoenix chip will override it anyway.

2) Boost fooler NOT needed if you're running PHP tunes.

3) N/A, see #2. ;)

Everyone I talk to says boost fooler not needed with php, but today I unplugged my wastegate, to get past 24psi, and once I hit 25-26psi my SES light came on? after a couple miles it went back off.
sorry, maybe I should start my own thread,

Quote:

Originally Posted by countryraised (Post 40541)

I was told that SES was not caused by boost, it's the HPOP not keeping up with what the injectors want. That was told to me by Cody, mine comes on if I romp it good. I've seen 28-30 on my boost gauge.

Quote:

Originally Posted by cj45lc (Post 40543)

I was wondering about that possibility, my e99 only has a 15°hpop:sigh:.

Quote:

Originally Posted by countryraised (Post 40544)

I was wondering about that possibility, my e99 only has a 15°hpop:sigh:.

Yea I'm keeping an eye out for a HPOP so I can send it to Joey at Terminator. He rebuilds them & works some magic with it. Funny ain't it Get chip, then HPOP, then Injectors, etc, etc

I have the turbomaster wate gate controller and it is adjusted to not allow the gate to open at all. It may have helped low end power. I have a pressure regulater on my map sensor line. All of this was a waste of money. Even with my 100 hp performance tune I stay under 24 psi. I don't know how others get such high boost but it sounds like it would be a bad thing with the stock turbo anyway. By the way the ATS turbo housing was the best thing I could have done to get rid of bad noise.

Save your money on the bellow up pipes. I spoke to a powerstroke mechanic about that. He pulls the upper pipe housing off replaces the seals then he takes the metal hold down piece and shave 20 thousandth off of them. He he says he clamps down really hard on the seals and they won't leak.

Quote:

Originally Posted by epowers777 (Post 44375)

That's a temporary solution at best.
The up-pipes expand and contract with engine operation and that will eventually wear out the seals.
The bellowed pipes eliminate that wear point.
They will not develope any leaks whatsoever during the entire service life.