[Power Hungry]

The dash mount is injection molded to fit the dash and is colored the same silver-gray as the dash. They did a really good job at color matching when designing the pod. It snaps into place and comes with two small brackets and velcro for more secure fastening to the dash. Most people don't bother to use the brackets as the pod grips the dash quite well.

The toughest part of the installation is removing the dash side panel in order to gain access for cable routing. In some cases it is possible to route the cable without removing the panel, but for a cleaner installation removal of the panel is best.

Other than that, everything else is straightforward. The only thing to remember is to have the ignition key in the ON position with the engine NOT running. The programmer needs to be able to query the PCM and determine what the calibration filename is so it can properly program the PCM.

It is also important to note that if you need to disconnect the battery for any reason (or have a dead battery), it is always recommended to unplug the programmer from the OBD-II port. The reason for this is because when the batter is reconnected (or charged), the unit will reboot and try to query the PCM. Since the key is most likely not going to be in the ON position at this time, the programmer will time-out on the data request and not get a valid calibration. The unit will still function correctly as a monitor but the next time you go to program the vehicle it will fail, indicating that the current PCM is not supported. If this should happen, don't worry. Simply turn the key to the ON position with the engine NOT running, unplug the cable from the OBD-II port, and then plug it back in. The PCM should be correctly identified and programming functions will now work properly.

Hope this helps.