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2004 to 2008 F-150 and Mark-LT 4.2L, 4.6L and 5.4L equipped F-150s and Mark-LTs. |
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#11
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Hey! Welcome to the "stupid post club"! I'm the charter member and we're always happy to have new members join us.
![]() - Jack |
#12
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My only hope to make up for that one is for 15 people to post questions about GR or TS in the next 10 minutes...(assuming a 15 atta boys for 1 aw $h!t ratio). ![]()
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"Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement." - Colin Powell to new batch of 2LTs (while serving as V Corps Commander) Factory manuals here: http://www.motorcraftservice.com |
#13
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It's more like 20:1, at least that's how I remember it. I've got such an "atta-boy" deficit right now that there's no hope for me.
- Jack |
#14
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#15
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I'm going to add that your larger tires DO have more "mass", which means there IS more power needed just to get them rotating (along with the increase in weight they add to your truck, the increased "rolling resistance" due to the larger footprint and the increase in wind resistance you'll see at highway speed due to the larger frontal area). - Jack |
#16
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You don't need to sell the whole wheel package:
http://forum.gopowerhungry.com/class...e-package.html Just swap out the tires to 275/55r20's. Not unless you still have your stock 18's rims+tires?
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SENIOR MODERATOR--PTLA God doesn't have a Facebook but he's my friend. God doesn't have a twitter, but I follow him. |
#17
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#18
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Thanks, |
#19
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OK, your OEM tires and gears were the same as mine. With your NEW tires and rims, your effective GR is 3.59, so you've lost a bit there. According to the Gear Ratio calculator in Pegasus, you would need 3.86 gears to get back to a "stock" performance level and, something like 4.10 would probably be better, to counter the additional rotating mass and rolling resistance.
Now, why your custom tune should be less "peppy" than the canned one is a big puzzle. It's possible that Bill tuned it that way for a reason. He can probably adjust for more power though if you're willing to take the hit on economy. This is something you'll have to work out with him. About the only thing you could try would be to raise your max rpm to maybe 5600 (if it's not already there) and your 1-2 and 2-3 upshifts to about 5200. I'd leave the 3-4 upshift alone and I would NOT go any higher than those numbers. Remember, this is a truck you're driving, not a dragster. It's really not designed for that kind of abuse. - Jack |
#20
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why are yall racing f150 4x4's? take him off-roading and see who 'wins' lol
the difference has got to be: 1.)aftermarket rim/tire weight....you are heavier than ur neighboor 2.) leveling kit...you are most likely less aerodynamic...his nose sits lower, you have more 'drag' on your setup 3.)same trannys? same shift points? same final drive ratio? if u're trying to make ur 4x4 fast....start by re-gearing, then exhaust, then a turbo! g/l
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1999 f150 4x4 - Flowmaster 40 series exhaust - 33" BFG M/T km2's - PHP Gryphon Programmer - RotorPros Slotted rotors - Mag-Hytec Diff Cvr Let's go Wheelin!!! |
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