Lost

[tadams11201]

iiiii

[88Racing]

No not really?
But
That module where its located seems to get a lot of debris on it. The wiring into the box isn't all that protected. The backing on the box can corrode also.

Originally Posted by tadams11201

No, they haven't. I am going to check it today. Yes, had PCM reflashed three times. Hopefully, the fuel control module will be the issue. Has anyone heard of the fuel relay on these going out?

[Jackpine]

Originally Posted by tadams11201

No, they haven't. I am going to check it today. Yes, had PCM reflashed three times. Hopefully, the fuel control module will be the issue. Has anyone heard of the fuel relay on these going out?

I think the correct name for this is the "Fuel Pump Driver Module" (FPDM). The original design seemed to become corroded and would swell and crack the case, exposing the circuit board inside to the elements. There were also reports of dealers being out of these things and having them on backorder due to the frequency of failure. They are easy to replace yourself, if you have the part, and it's easy to inspect them for exterior damage if you drop the spare tire. It's mounted on the crossmember just in front of the spare tire.

- Jack

[tadams11201]

iiiii

[Longshot270]

I wonder if you could "return" any of the equipment from the failed attempts to fix the problem?

Since nothing seems to work I'd like to "see" what your truck is driving like. The gryphon has the ability to record some of the PIDs you usually watch on the screen. The 5 I'd like to see are RPM, LOAD, MPH, APP and OSS.

These will tell me the speed your engine is working at, how hard your engine is working, how hard you are having to push your engine, how fast your going and OSS will just tell me what the "output shaft speed" is. All the OSS is usefull for is if it doesn't match the RPM relatively closely under certain conditions the transmission is slipping. The last one isn't necissary but since there was an opening might as well put something that might be usefull. Otherwise I would have went with MAF like Cody mentioned but since you've changed the cats and I dont have a 5.4 to compare to it wouldn't tell me much.

Since you only have 5 mins of driving go to a nice long street where you dont have to worry about people running up on you.
To pack the most information into one run (and one trip since the programmer only stores one log at a time) start with an agonizingly slow and steady acceleration from 0-60 at 1 mph per second acceleration. Sounds easy but I recommend you keep a watch or clock on the dash to guage your foot off of. After that slow back down to a stop and floor the pedal till you hit 60+ (I went to 90 but I know not everyone can do that). For the last one do a regular acceleration that you use in traffic up to about 60 mph.
Or make it look like this graph: http://forum.gopowerhungry.com/membe...datastream.jpg

If your not sure how to do it I have instructions just above my sig pic in the link "Gryphon data log instructions (The basics)".

Probably wont get anything usefull out of it but ya never know, something might pop up that nobody has though of yet.

[88Racing]

There's 2 stores on eBay that sell the coil packs.
Ones called uneek and the other is ?

[BlackSTX]

Before you go replacing coils, if replacing them didn't change the problem initially, they're probably okay, don't waste money that you may not need to.

As suggested, see if you can get that info requested by Longshot. Have you questioned the dealership that charged you up the wazoo for a ton of work without correcting the problem? I'd try hitting them up for not fixing the problem, that's far more important than replacing the coils again.

[osprey]

Sorry to be a 'Johnny-come-lately' to this problem, but I might have a solution to this problem.

What it sounds like, to me, is that your camshafts may be in a retarded positon by one or two teeth, causing the poor performance. You could also have a problem with cam phasers that are not advancing the cam timing during acceleration. These problems would not be apparent in no load acceleration (transmission in park or neutral), but would be very apparent in acceleration under load.

I would definitely have both the camshaft timing checked, and have the cam phasers checked for proper operation.

I know, from personal experience, that when the timing gear started to go out on one of my previous vehicles, the cam timing retarded one tooth. You used to be aable to tell this because the initial timing woudl be retarded when read from the balancer with a timing light. You would then advance the initial timing by resetting the distributor, and everything would seem fine, until it jumped another tooth and retarded the camshaft further, and even then with the timing reset, the engine would be very weak.

Hopefully, this information will help you get your truck back to 100%.