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1999 to 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel equipped Super Duty and Excursion. |
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#1
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Power locks not working
My power locks have not worked in the 3 yrs that I have owned the truck. The key fob and communication works. The fob nor the door switches will work the locks. I pulled fuse 26 I'm the power distribution box to check it and the truck turned off. Put the fuse back and I was able to start the truck. One of the legs of the fuse looked burned but the element seemed to be intact. I believe I replaced the fuse a couple of yrs ago and the looks seemed like they didn't have enough umph to actuate. Every time i tried to work them it seemed like they were getting less and less juice each time.
When I talked to Bill, he told me Cost was the expert on this issue.
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01 F350 7.3 4x4 CC SRW/3.73/315-75-16/Aeroforce Interceptor/BD Thruster II/ Bellowed Up-Pipes/4" turbo back exhaust/CCV Mod/DIY 6637/FPR Shimmed to 65 PSI/TS chip reburned with PHP tunes (Stock, 40T WITH Whsiper tune, 80DD, 100R, 140Ex, 140SS)/Replaced and Cleaned EBPS & Tube 4-6-12/Zoodad mod/Recon smoked cab lights/MM Hubs/Cowl Hood/HPx |
#2
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Mine got to where they would work but were real weak & then it got to the point that you could hear them trying to work but just wouldn't get it done. I went ahead & got the new lock actuaters from Ford for about $35 a piece & everything has been fine. There is a write up about taken the thing apart & wrapping tin-foil around some part of it to make them work but I was told the newer actuaters were the way to go. It's one of them jobs that took me close to an hour to do the 1st one & maybe 20 mins to do the other. It was worth it to me to buy the new ones & be done with it
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2000 F-250 SCLB 2wd 7.3 auto PHP stock-65t-80dd-120race-high idle-no start 4"tb exh, wicked wheel, 3 guages, AIS, coolant filt, |
#3
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The door lock actuators use a thermal resistor circuit breaker. It's a safety feature to keep kids/dogs/cargo from burning the truck to the ground if the door lock switch is depressed too long. As the temperature of the circuit breaker goes up, so does the resistance. As resistance goes up, the current though the circuit goes down thus minimizing heat created in the circuit in the event of a short or a switch depressed for an excessive amount of time.
Over time, these resistive circuit breakers "wear out" electrically and limit current to the actuator motor windings even under normal (cool) situations. Yes, it is possible to disassemble the actuators and provide a parallel shunt across the circuit breaker but it's not adviseable due to safety reasons. Unfortunately the only way I know of doing it properly is to replace the entire actuator in each door (which if you have a crewcab truck will cost you plenty). |
#4
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Quote:
I'm going to attempt to install a security system and it would be nice to have the door locks operating. Otherwise I wouldn't be worrying about it.
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01 F350 7.3 4x4 CC SRW/3.73/315-75-16/Aeroforce Interceptor/BD Thruster II/ Bellowed Up-Pipes/4" turbo back exhaust/CCV Mod/DIY 6637/FPR Shimmed to 65 PSI/TS chip reburned with PHP tunes (Stock, 40T WITH Whsiper tune, 80DD, 100R, 140Ex, 140SS)/Replaced and Cleaned EBPS & Tube 4-6-12/Zoodad mod/Recon smoked cab lights/MM Hubs/Cowl Hood/HPx |
#5
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Is there a wire I can check to see if it gets voltage when the lock/unlock button is pressed?
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01 F350 7.3 4x4 CC SRW/3.73/315-75-16/Aeroforce Interceptor/BD Thruster II/ Bellowed Up-Pipes/4" turbo back exhaust/CCV Mod/DIY 6637/FPR Shimmed to 65 PSI/TS chip reburned with PHP tunes (Stock, 40T WITH Whsiper tune, 80DD, 100R, 140Ex, 140SS)/Replaced and Cleaned EBPS & Tube 4-6-12/Zoodad mod/Recon smoked cab lights/MM Hubs/Cowl Hood/HPx |
#6
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The switches control the ground circuit of the lock actuator motors. The common scenario is that the actuators get weaker after the first button press and then begin to do less on subsequent presses.....once you let them rest for a few minutes, you can repeat the process.
It's not hard to test, but the best way to do it is to actually measure current flow through the circuit. Measuring voltage will only test the switches, power, and ground circuits. It's not uncommon for all of the actuators to take a dump (my 01 CC was the same way). One fails and the others slowly follow until none of them work. |
#7
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Okay, I'll probably get 2 actuators and see if that does the trick. If so, I'll buy the other 2. Thanks for the info Cody.
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01 F350 7.3 4x4 CC SRW/3.73/315-75-16/Aeroforce Interceptor/BD Thruster II/ Bellowed Up-Pipes/4" turbo back exhaust/CCV Mod/DIY 6637/FPR Shimmed to 65 PSI/TS chip reburned with PHP tunes (Stock, 40T WITH Whsiper tune, 80DD, 100R, 140Ex, 140SS)/Replaced and Cleaned EBPS & Tube 4-6-12/Zoodad mod/Recon smoked cab lights/MM Hubs/Cowl Hood/HPx |
#8
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Amazon has them pretty cheap...
Amazon.com: Dorman 746-149 Door Lock Actuator: Automotive They also have EBP sensor for $76. Gotta get one of those too and tube.
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01 F350 7.3 4x4 CC SRW/3.73/315-75-16/Aeroforce Interceptor/BD Thruster II/ Bellowed Up-Pipes/4" turbo back exhaust/CCV Mod/DIY 6637/FPR Shimmed to 65 PSI/TS chip reburned with PHP tunes (Stock, 40T WITH Whsiper tune, 80DD, 100R, 140Ex, 140SS)/Replaced and Cleaned EBPS & Tube 4-6-12/Zoodad mod/Recon smoked cab lights/MM Hubs/Cowl Hood/HPx |
#10
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You can also pull the actuators and drill out the rivets and replace the little piece tht wears out with a piece of thin copper or something of the sort... That's what I did and my door locks one work like new now I'm sure if you hold the locks down something is gonna get hot and I voided some kinda safety feature but it was free and took about 2 hours start to finish
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