2000 International 4700 with orion

[Power Hungry]

Honestly, the stock turbos seem to perform pretty well, especially when swapping to a 1.0 housing. Improves low RPM spool and still open enough to keep EGTs in check. My only recommendation would be to call DieselSite and order a Wicked Wheel for that turbo. Makes a noticeable improvement in airflow, particularly when pulling.

One advantage you have is that you are running a manual. EGTs are almost always caused by lugging the engine in too high of a gear. With the ability to just knock it down a gear or two and get the RPMs up, you can increase airflow through the engine which keeps the EGTs in a reasonable range. You could concieveably run a 38R turbo with a 1.0 or 1.15 housing if EGTs start getting unmanageable, but you're going to lose some bottom end as these turbos are slower to spool than the standard GTP38. I guess it all depends on the type of driving you anticipate normally operating the vehicle in.

On the Stage 1's, yes... I'm personally a big fan of keeping the nozzles stock. Unless you're spending a lot of time over 3000 RPM, stock nozzles don't have any problem discharging 160cc of fuel. On the Power Stroke counterparts, we regularly see 350-375 HP while still running the stock turbo. With appropriate exhaust (which you've already addressed), EGTs should be very manageable even as power output crests 300 HP.

The only real concern we really have on the Navistars is the rather anemic cooling system thermal dissipation. Most of these trucks run the split radiator/intercooler, and this can cause elevated operating temps at higher power outputs with heavy loads. You, however, are ahead of the game as you already addressed many of these issues with replacing the radiator (they get pretty cruddy inside) and the water pump. If your timing cover is the setup that has the coolant filter included, just make sure to change that regularly.

I hope this is helpful.

[Absolution]

Originally Posted by Power Hungry

Honestly, the stock turbos seem to perform pretty well, especially when swapping to a 1.0 housing. Improves low RPM spool and still open enough to keep EGTs in check. My only recommendation would be to call DieselSite and order a Wicked Wheel for that turbo. Makes a noticeable improvement in airflow, particularly when pulling.

One advantage you have is that you are running a manual. EGTs are almost always caused by lugging the engine in too high of a gear. With the ability to just knock it down a gear or two and get the RPMs up, you can increase airflow through the engine which keeps the EGTs in a reasonable range. You could concieveably run a 38R turbo with a 1.0 or 1.15 housing if EGTs start getting unmanageable, but you're going to lose some bottom end as these turbos are slower to spool than the standard GTP38. I guess it all depends on the type of driving you anticipate normally operating the vehicle in.

On the Stage 1's, yes... I'm personally a big fan of keeping the nozzles stock. Unless you're spending a lot of time over 3000 RPM, stock nozzles don't have any problem discharging 160cc of fuel. On the Power Stroke counterparts, we regularly see 350-375 HP while still running the stock turbo. With appropriate exhaust (which you've already addressed), EGTs should be very manageable even as power output crests 300 HP.

The only real concern we really have on the Navistars is the rather anemic cooling system thermal dissipation. Most of these trucks run the split radiator/intercooler, and this can cause elevated operating temps at higher power outputs with heavy loads. You, however, are ahead of the game as you already addressed many of these issues with replacing the radiator (they get pretty cruddy inside) and the water pump. If your timing cover is the setup that has the coolant filter included, just make sure to change that regularly.

I hope this is helpful.

Awesome thank you for the info. I'm not entirely in-depth with the 7.3.

Yes, It is a split radiator, I wanted to go to the older style but it was what was available at the time and by time I mean discovered a hole in the bottom of it when I tried to flush it and clean out the fins.

Since I've had new radiator and I've set the clutch to a lower temp she's been doing pretty well even on the hot days. Hopefully once most of this is done it will live in the flat lands. Maybe only pull a camper to the mountains.

EDIT:
Also as far as stock EGT's go in when I was towing up the mountains it wouldn't go over 1050 before. That was with the factory 1.0 housing and the probe right above manifold on driver side uppipe. So I figured I did have some wiggle room.

Something to ask on with this reflash system am I still able to use my nexiq to interface with the truck?

[Power Hungry]

Originally Posted by Absolution

Also as far as stock EGT's go in when I was towing up the mountains it wouldn't go over 1050 before. That was with the factory 1.0 housing and the probe right above manifold on driver side uppipe. So I figured I did have some wiggle room.

Something to ask on with this reflash system am I still able to use my nexiq to interface with the truck?

If you're peaking at about 1050 now, then yes... You've got a little room. 1150-1200 sustained under heavy load is about the max you'll want to see, with short bursts (10-15 seconds) at 1250-1300 being okay.

As for the Nexiq, that should still work just fine. I use mine on the bench all the time and I can't even count how many times I've reflashed my test PCMs.

[Absolution]

I did get my wastegate related stuff in along with a 4" downpipe that I'll need to fab up.

Also, I did some hunting I'm not sure if my turbo is like the van turbos with the larger exhaust side shaft. If that's the case I may just end up buying a KC300X. My biggest worry is if it tries to surge in mountains and I swear there used to be more stock ported housings on market but all I'm seeing ATS branded one for $400. So if I also have to get a smaller shaft I'm kind of pushing the monetary point of just investing in a complete turbo.

[Absolution]

Well I went ahead and bit the bullet ordered a kc300x stage 1 for my truck. In hopes of keeping everything cool and running smoothly in the future.

[Power Hungry]

Originally Posted by Absolution

Well I went ahead and bit the bullet ordered a kc300x stage 1 for my truck. In hopes of keeping everything cool and running smoothly in the future.

Gonna be a nice setup!

[Absolution]

Originally Posted by Power Hungry

Gonna be a nice setup!

I'm really hoping that I made the right choice with the stage 1. I had read where some people had better results with the stage two buy only when they were towing and the truck was under a heavy load. I'm just curious if my lower gearing and weight would bump me into that category.

But I've pulled that trigger and we will see where it gets me.


I was also talking to my brother and I could always open up some beers take the super single off my dodge and fab up a jerry rigged compound on truck.
I could even use the mechanical fuel pump hole as an oil return.
Besides since the dodge became a property truck I dropped the sticks back to 5x012 and it could really use a 63mm sized charger now.

[Absolution]

I came home for this week. I've started the install of the KC300X stage 1 .84.

Everything is drop in except you have to order a 4" 90* elbow and as previously stated fab a down pipe.

I ended up Mig welding instead of Tig since I'm going to be covering it up with header wrap and I wasn't going to waste my time. I drove it with essentially a from axle dump and touched 1,300* once running though the gears (250hp setting). Once I get the muffler hooked back up I'll pressure test the system to check for leaks on the cold side then I'll start playing around with the other power settings.

I can however say the turbo spooled way faster than before even though it's inducer side is larger.

[Power Hungry]

I gotta tell ya... That is one sexy beast! I'm surprised at how much you had to fab up on the downpipe, but I guess that's just what it is.

Can't wait to see it all finished up!

[Absolution]

It was basically hitting the engine mounts or was hitting the transmission. The rail of the downpipe was also aiming up and forwards the cab.