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1999 to 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel equipped Super Duty and Excursion. |
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#11
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no hating buddy lots of great info. just had a contribution test done on mine and was told the number 8 was bad so i payed 357 bucks for 1 injector, truck runs the same.
just had my muffler put back on my 5" exhaust and the truck felt faster with stock exhaust . sorry to get off topic |
#12
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Nothing is off-topic here! Let it flow!
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Tuning, flashing, burning chips, and repairing all aspects of 7.3L Powerstrokes. SEVEN 7.3L-powered vehicles in the driveway. Two didn't come that way from the factory! |
#13
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cool, as soon as my tundra sells i will be ordering my chip . wifey put my spending on hold till i sell it though.
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#14
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That is what I am waiting on... money from selling my tires and tonneau cover and Gryphon, after those are gone Ill get the phoenix and an insight for guages . and yeah, no such thing as off topic here, I want to learn as much as I can since i've never done anything with diesels before... except breath in their smoke!
just a thought... one injector is $357?! all eight cost $1100 for remanned units.. gotta love the stealership! |
#15
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so i clicked on an ad at the top of this page and it took me to "dieselsite". after looking around I saw a few products, such as the wicked wheel, and now I have a few questions. First: what is the benefit of a wicked wheel and how would I know that I need one? I read that it helps get rid of "turbo surge". so second question: what is turbo surge?
I also saw a "intake heater plug" that says it helps unblock the intake. is this an issue? does this $9.00 part really make a difference in performance? next question: are the intercooler and turbo boots that they sell worth it? do they help keep up pressure? do the stock ones really suck that bad? Thanks for the answers! |
#16
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i dont know anything about these trucks all this i speak of i have just gotten from reading on the net, so if Cody says anything different please listen to him |
#17
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Thanks for the insights, I agree with the idea of "if it ain't broke, dont fix it" but at 172600 miles I would imagine that they are getting pretty worn... idk how leaky that would make them though.
another question: Cody said that I might have u-joint problems because of a noise I hear when decelerating off the freeway, He said I can fairly easily take the driveshaft off and check the u-joints, but my question is do I need a special tool to put new ones in or can I just push hard or hammer them in? Thanks again! |
#18
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I got by for years with sockets, a vice, and a hammer. However, there are press tools out there now for doing u-joints. They're not hard, but you can damage the yokes and/or shorten the life of the new joints if not installed properly.
Youtube has a ton of u-joint replacement/inspection videos.
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Tuning, flashing, burning chips, and repairing all aspects of 7.3L Powerstrokes. SEVEN 7.3L-powered vehicles in the driveway. Two didn't come that way from the factory! |
#19
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good to know, thanks , what's your opinion on the other things I mention in the previous post?
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#20
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forget about the wicked-wheel, I doubt you have surge problems. Now after you put a chip on it you may experience surge & you'll know when you do, a ported compressor housing is the 100% cure but costs $$$. The w-w is the older style wheel which will flow a little less air but might take care of the surge. BTW you can get a w-w for $75 @ XDP I don't put much stock in the heater delete plug deal, might make a difference if you're trying to make a 500hp engine. The boots look nice & if you have a leak would be a good thing but if it ain't broke don't f with it. I'd put the gauges & chip then go from there, I'm sure there will be plenty of things to spend your $$ on
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2000 F-250 SCLB 2wd 7.3 auto PHP stock-65t-80dd-120race-high idle-no start 4"tb exh, wicked wheel, 3 guages, AIS, coolant filt, |
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