Help 7.3 missing, no codes, did buzz and contribution tests

[Probuilder]

Corey,
When I clicked on the link to purchase an AE SP03 it tells me that the link is broken??????
How do I purchase this?

[cleatus12r]

The link is fixed!!

[Probuilder]

The link still isn't working.
This is what I get when I click on the link.

[Probuilder]

Got the AE scantool today. Here r thr results.
P1280
P0237
P0113
p1119
P0475
P1211
P0541

On the buzz test the last 2 buzzes were dull in sound and not as fast as the others.

On contribution test, got these codes.
P0269
P0284
P0541
P0640

It sounds like the back 2 injectors are bad, correct?
But, codes come up as #3 and #8 aren't contributing as much?
So what do I do from here?
Do I need to do more tests?
Thanks

[cleatus12r]

Originally Posted by Probuilder

Got the AE scantool today. Here r thr results.
P1280 ICP circuit out of range low (short to ground either in the sensor in the wiring harness....or no injection pressure after long crank times)
P0237 MAP sensor circuit problem.
P0113 Intake air temp sensor or circuit open.
p1119 Again, an intake air temp sensor or circuit open.
P0475 Exhaust Backpressure Valve malfunction (could be bad sensor or plugged pressure tube).
P1211 Not an issue. Normal for a chipped 7.3L
P0541 Intake air heater malfunction. Not an issue.

On the buzz test the last 2 buzzes were dull in sound and not as fast as the others.

On contribution test, got these codes.
P0269 #3 contribution
P0284 #8 contribution
P0541 Intake Air heater (no problem)
P0640 Intake air heater (no problem)

It sounds like the back 2 injectors are bad, correct?
But, codes come up as #3 and #8 aren't contributing as much?
So what do I do from here?
Do I need to do more tests?
Thanks

If you have a gray-colored camshaft position sensor, then #3 and #8 usually fail the CCT. It's just the nature of the beast.
Don't sweat the P1211 as it's normal for a chipped 7.3L to set this code after a hard run in a "hot" tune.
Also, the P0541 isn't important as it just shows up because of an intake air heater delete or disconnect. It IS a problem if you still have the heater and wiring intact.

[Probuilder]

It is a grey cps in it right now. Should I swap it out to see if that fixes the problem?
Or will it not make a difference when actually running?
Should I check the pressures on the ipr, ipc oil pressure, etc?

[907DAVE]

I would swap the CPS with a black or dark purple one, clear all codes and re-test.

The CPS will have no effect on the Buzz Test, but will effect the Contribution Test.

This is not going to cure you misfire issue, instead make things a little more cut and dry. It will eliminate the phantom 3&8 misfire that the gray CPS is know for.

But I am going to put my money on that #8 injector being bad.

Good Luck

[Probuilder]

Dave,
Did the CPS swap and retested.
Still got these codes:
KOER:
P0476 Exhaust Pressure Control Valve Range/ Performance
P0541 Intake Air Heater- Not used.
P0640 Intake Air Heater- Not used.

KOEO:
P0475 Exhaust Pressure Control Valve
P0640 Intake Air Heater- Not used.

On the buzz test the last 2 buzzes were dull in sound and not as fast as the others, just like before.

I don't have the FU Chip in the truck at all. I took it out to perform all tests.
Any help would be appreciated.
How do I test the ICP, IPR sensors? I know that you have info on here on how to perform all these tests, but I can't find it.

[SICKS-O]

i see that you posted you already did the UVC harnesses, did you replace just the injector/glow plug harnesses or did you do a valve cover gasket as well? a scan tool will only get you so far on a 7.3, but can point you in a direction, from there things are going to get more hands on. since cyl 7 and cyl 8 dont have a strong buzz that narrows things down a bit.

there are a few possibilities, wiring harness chafing, UVCH or valve cover gasket connector problem or injector failure.

i would first check for chafing of the engine wiring harness, particularly in the area above the drivers side valve cover where the junction block is. if there are any chafes repair them and retest. if the problem is still there unplug the engine harness from each valve cover gasket and test the resistance between the connectors and the appropriate pins at the junction block, the continuity should be good. if not that problem will need to be addressed. the next step is to check each valve cover gasket pin for each injector circuit (other than a dvm you may need a special tool that plugs into the valve cover gasket that is available, never tried doing it without it) the resistance should within a certain margin. (i cant remember the specific amounts off the top of my head). if the resistance is within spec there could still be an injector failure but possibly an issue with the engine harness between the valve cover gaskets and idm or the idm could just be no good.
if the resistance at the outside connection of the valve cover gasket is not within spec (specifically cyl 7 and 8) then you will need to pull the valve covers and unplug the UVCHs. test the resistance at each pin from both sides of the valve cover gasket connector to eliminate that as a possibility, obviously there should be no open circuits and should have good continuity. from there you want to test resistance at the UVCH connector itself to get another reading for each injectors coil resistance and see if it matches the reading you originally got from the outside. if it the resistance is now within spec there then is an issue that was over looked with the valve cover gasket itself or the engine harness. if the resistance is still not in spec you could go as far as testing the continuity of the uvch but more than likely the injector(s) have failed and need to be replaced.

if you get all the way to the injectors them self and the resistance and continuity tests have checked out good it is possible there is still an injector failure but since there isnt any hard evidence yet i would swap cyl 7 and 8 injectors with 2 other cylinders (using new o-rings and washers of course) then retest and see if the problem followed the injectors that were originally in 7 and/or 8. if the problem didnt follow those 2 injectors and stayed at 7 and/or 8 then things get more interesting. at that point the IDM is starting to look suspect but post back your evidence before i get into that lol.

good luck.

[Probuilder]

UVCH and gaskets were changed out.
Wiring harness between the IDM and valve cover gaskets has been changed out and tested, just did that last night. (Since I had an extra one laying around)

I will get a o-ring kit and swap out the injectors to let you know on that.

Thanks for the help