#21
|
|||
|
|||
Ok, what's the best way to manually turn the engine? Don't you have to do something to let the pressure out..or does it go out the exhaust valves? So what is the coolant plug for? Would it be any use when draining the coolant?
__________________
01 F350 7.3 4x4 CC SRW/3.73/315-75-16/Aeroforce Interceptor/BD Thruster II/ Bellowed Up-Pipes/4" turbo back exhaust/CCV Mod/DIY 6637/FPR Shimmed to 65 PSI/TS chip reburned with PHP tunes (Stock, 40T WITH Whsiper tune, 80DD, 100R, 140Ex, 140SS)/Replaced and Cleaned EBPS & Tube 4-6-12/Zoodad mod/Recon smoked cab lights/MM Hubs/Cowl Hood/HPx |
#22
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
The coolant plug is just for that, draining the coolant out of the block. There is one on the passenger side also.
__________________
2000 F-250 SCLB 2wd 7.3 auto PHP stock-65t-80dd-120race-high idle-no start 4"tb exh, wicked wheel, 3 guages, AIS, coolant filt, |
#23
|
|||
|
|||
I can leave the port open when bumping the starter or gotta close it up if it takes a couple of times?
I got plans to do stage II/III injectors, GTP38R, and Adrenaline hpop
__________________
01 F350 7.3 4x4 CC SRW/3.73/315-75-16/Aeroforce Interceptor/BD Thruster II/ Bellowed Up-Pipes/4" turbo back exhaust/CCV Mod/DIY 6637/FPR Shimmed to 65 PSI/TS chip reburned with PHP tunes (Stock, 40T WITH Whsiper tune, 80DD, 100R, 140Ex, 140SS)/Replaced and Cleaned EBPS & Tube 4-6-12/Zoodad mod/Recon smoked cab lights/MM Hubs/Cowl Hood/HPx |
#24
|
|||
|
|||
I'd leave the plug out & bump the starter. I'm curios tho why even bother ?
__________________
2000 F-250 SCLB 2wd 7.3 auto PHP stock-65t-80dd-120race-high idle-no start 4"tb exh, wicked wheel, 3 guages, AIS, coolant filt, |
#25
|
|||
|
|||
Aren't PMRs only rated for a certain HP? 500 IIRC. And doesn't PHP only offer the 140tune on forged rods?
__________________
01 F350 7.3 4x4 CC SRW/3.73/315-75-16/Aeroforce Interceptor/BD Thruster II/ Bellowed Up-Pipes/4" turbo back exhaust/CCV Mod/DIY 6637/FPR Shimmed to 65 PSI/TS chip reburned with PHP tunes (Stock, 40T WITH Whsiper tune, 80DD, 100R, 140Ex, 140SS)/Replaced and Cleaned EBPS & Tube 4-6-12/Zoodad mod/Recon smoked cab lights/MM Hubs/Cowl Hood/HPx |
#26
|
||||
|
||||
Well the old rule of thumb was 400HP on PMR's. But this limit was set when tuning was not as great as it is now. If you could use a larger nozzle and less timing, you could keep cylinder pressures in check while still making good, safe power.
Stay tuned to Bill's thread, think this might disprove alot of previous assumptions. |
#27
|
||||
|
||||
So I took some pics of my U-joints a bit ago, i hope they upload here right, can anyone tell me off first look if they should be replaced?
Thanks for the help! My thoughts are that it can't hurt, but if they look like they will be fine then I will spend my money on other things Thanks! |
#28
|
|||
|
|||
I can't tell by looking at the pics, I've always just grabbed the drive shaft & shake & twist it to feel for any loose motion in the u-joints.
__________________
2000 F-250 SCLB 2wd 7.3 auto PHP stock-65t-80dd-120race-high idle-no start 4"tb exh, wicked wheel, 3 guages, AIS, coolant filt, |
#29
|
||||
|
||||
The one on the rear diff looks a bit funny to me.
What is that hanging off of it, the dust seal? |
#30
|
||||
|
||||
Yeah that it what it is as far as I can tell, I'll try shaking the shafts and see, I am planning on replacing them when I get time, do I need to worry about quality our can I just go to the local auto parts store? Thanks
|
|
|