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#1
Thu, February 25th, 2010, 11:29 AM
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A cold start tune?
I was wondering if it's possible to make a cold start tune that advances the start of injection a few degrees.
For safety reasons the engine rpm could be limited to 1200 rpm if you forget that it's on that tune and try to drive away. Reason I am asking is my neighbor's house is directly downwind of my tailpipe and every time I start the engine the exhaust drifts to thier back door.
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Dan 1999 F550 4x4 ZF6 pulling a Cedar Creek 36RLTS. 1999 VW Jetta TDI 5speed stick, all stock. 1996 Audi A4 Quattro. Unstoppable in the snow and ice. The single most important thing in life is the condition of the human soul. All deeds, whether they are good or evil, spring up from that. 
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#2
Thu, February 25th, 2010, 03:01 PM
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Actually it would be really easy to do in ANY tune. The EOT-based SOI map would easily allow that to happen.
Your thinking regarding an actual TUNE would work too and wouldn't be too hard to do. When I get home tonight I'll post up some ideas for you.
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Tuning, flashing, burning chips, and repairing all aspects of 7.3L Powerstrokes. SEVEN 7.3L-powered vehicles in the driveway. Two didn't come that way from the factory!
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#4
Thu, February 25th, 2010, 03:19 PM
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Start it and put it on high idle
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Chuck 1992 Calypso Green Mustang notch 1995 Mustang GT 2004 Explorer Limited A veteran is someone who, at one point in one's life, wrote a blank check made payable to 'The United States of America', for an amount of 'up to and including my life'. That is honor, and there are way too many people in this country who no longer understand it. -Author Unknown
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#5
Fri, February 26th, 2010, 09:26 AM
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Quote:
I'm thinking a tune that has the SOI advanced beyond what is safe to drive with, but without harming the engine at idle or no-load fast idle. Hence the need for an RPM limiter to remind you to switch away from that tune for driving. What brought this idea to mind is working with the older VW mechanical injection diesel. They have a "choke" knob that you pull to advance the pump timing a little. If you don't pull that knob the engine smokes like crazy, if it starts at all, and really struggles to idle. Pull the knob and it instantly clears up, idles smooth and all the smoke goes away. Pulling the knob makes a difference in how the engine sounds when warmed up, the engine gets louder at idle. This behavior is consistant for every one of those engines from brand new rebuilt on down to a worn out beater that still has decent compression. . My new engine in the truck is behaving the same way, as if it needs more SOI when cold compared to the old engine. Switching to the 1100 rpm fast idle doesn't clear it up, it just raises the engine rpm. The diesel clatter is also muffled under the excess fuel loading when cold as large clouds of fuel smoke as blown out of the tailpipe. It will smoke for a long time, much longer than the old engine did. If I drive away immediately, (gently) it clears within 1/4 mile and sounds normal. I don't know what changed between the two, I re-used all the temperature sensors off of the old engine. The new engine came with a new ICP sensor and a CMP sensor, but I have a hard time seeing where those two would make a difference in this case.
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Dan 1999 F550 4x4 ZF6 pulling a Cedar Creek 36RLTS. 1999 VW Jetta TDI 5speed stick, all stock. 1996 Audi A4 Quattro. Unstoppable in the snow and ice. The single most important thing in life is the condition of the human soul. All deeds, whether they are good or evil, spring up from that.
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#6
Sat, February 27th, 2010, 01:14 AM
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Something like this? I should try it out in the morning.....
Dan, I know exactly what you're talking about with the "choke" knob on those diesels.
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Tuning, flashing, burning chips, and repairing all aspects of 7.3L Powerstrokes. SEVEN 7.3L-powered vehicles in the driveway. Two didn't come that way from the factory! Last edited by cleatus12r; Wed, July 7th, 2010 at 10:24 PM.
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#7
Sat, February 27th, 2010, 10:54 AM
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Yes, that is what I have in mind.
The engine makes the greatest amount of smoke on 1100 RPM fast idle. So what I'm thinking is 30 degree 800 rpm and 1300 rpm: 8 degrees. 60 degrees for 800 and 1300: 6.5 and 7. I don't know what values are in the 600 rpm cells, but I would like to bump those up a little too. And all zeros above 1200. Any higher or lower RPM makes less smoke.
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Dan 1999 F550 4x4 ZF6 pulling a Cedar Creek 36RLTS. 1999 VW Jetta TDI 5speed stick, all stock. 1996 Audi A4 Quattro. Unstoppable in the snow and ice. The single most important thing in life is the condition of the human soul. All deeds, whether they are good or evil, spring up from that. Last edited by Kwikkordead; Sat, February 27th, 2010 at 11:30 AM.
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#8
Sun, February 28th, 2010, 09:05 PM
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 Wish I could do that with mine.
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#9
Sun, February 28th, 2010, 10:32 PM
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Blue=Stock
Black=Changed 
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Tuning, flashing, burning chips, and repairing all aspects of 7.3L Powerstrokes. SEVEN 7.3L-powered vehicles in the driveway. Two didn't come that way from the factory!
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