help IDM issues

[hayjayhorses]

On my 2000 F550 (280,000 miles) I am having an IDM problem, I think??

the other night I was driving home with a load of hay, and the left bank cut out. The pyrometer thermocupler is in the Left manafold i limped it to a truck stop. If I shut the truck off and start it back up it would fire on both banks for about 15 seconds then the left side would cutt out.

I immediatley took the left valve cover off to see if I had any burnt up wires they were all good, valve cover gaskets connectors were good also, as I started the look at the wiring harness closer I noticed some wires were chaffed and the the Left bank wire was repaired and the connection fell apart as i mess with it. So I fixed all the wires and put it all back together and still the same thing. start up and run fine the left side cut out.

I had my brother bring me an IDM out of my '94 and I put it in the 2000 (what to get to the IDM in a superduty) and the truck ran purfect infact better then ever (I bought it in July '08) and it was louder like my '01.

any way today on my way home 600 miles later the Left bank cut out again ('94 idm still in there) I shut off the truck for a minute stated it back up and drove for 3 hours and left banck didn't cuut out, it is running quiet again and with less power then usual. when I stop then go, as I get going and put my foot into it, it sounds like more injectors start to fire, but dose not feel like it is skipping, also it is making about 29 psi a boost @ 2600 + rpms (the waste gate accuator tube is dissconected) usualy it maxes out at 26 psi.

I heard some were an open circuit(s) could cuase the IDM to burn up, Is there a circuit breaker or something like that for each bank. I see rebuilt, up graded IDMs for sale, Is there any know resources out there that i can use to rebuilt or upgrade my own IDM

I just stopped at home for a bit and I am heading down to cape cod with this hay, I would take my GMC with it's ultra reliable Cat 3116 but I need the 4x4 with all the snow I will be in. I will check back later in the day, or some one can call me (413-222-8286) I will be up morning and day (New Years Eve) if some one has some helpfull info form me.

Thanks
Jay Noone (413)222-8286

[cleatus12r]

One of the first things you need to do is retrieve the trouble codes.
My bet is that you have some injector circuit codes for the even bank. The thing about these trucks is that one injector fault will kill the whole bank. These codes include:

Shorted injector circuit (either in the wiring or the injector)
P1262 (cyl. 2)
P1264 (4)......
P1266
P1268

Open injector circuit (either in the wiring or injector)
P1272
P1274
P1276
P1278

High side faults
P1292 Shorted
P1294 Open

Don't forget that there are connectors all over the place. The IDM connector, the engine harness connector (the big square one above the left valve cover), the ones at the valve cover gasket (external and internal), and one at each injector.

Good luck!

[hayjayhorses]

thanks for the info I will get the truck on a code reader tommarow and see what I come up with.

I think I have a bad Magnet. Or I may have a loose armature plate (my gut feeling) I did shim all the armature plates .002 and 2 on the left bank .004, I lost a few of the .002 shims. I did not locktite or use new magnet plate screws.

If any one is woundering why I did this, it is because the truck would not start cold, even on a hot summer day. The reason was because the poppet valve (did I say that right?) were so worn (4.88 gears x 260,000 miles + many pto hours = zillions of injector cycles. I think?). Anyway acording to Rosewood Diesel the gap under Armature/magnet plate needs to be between .004" and .002", needless too say on this truck there was zero gap at room temp and almost .0015" at 180 degrees engine temp and at normal operating temp the truck started and ran fine.

Instead of removing the injectors. breaking them down and Machining the injector body, I came up with the idea of shiming up the armature. After a week of hunting around I was able to come up with 6.9/7.3 idi injector shims in .002" and .004". I installed them with out pulling the injectors, but like I said I missplaced a few of the .002" and had to use .004" on two injectors on the left side, so maybe the armature is hitting the solenoid?

I will read the codes and take the solenoids off the left bank injectors and see what I come up with.

I have a set of low mileage single shot injectors I want to put in this truck but I need to get a single shot program first.

[hayjayhorses]

Infact she is running better then ever (well since I owed the truck).

I did the buzz test and it did a P0276 (#6 low injector curcit) code. I got the ohm meter and tested the injectors at the 42 pin connector.
Cylinders #2,4,8 were all 3.1 ohm, # 6 was 2.4 ohm and the odd bank were all at 3.4 ohm.

I tested all the even injectors at the injector and got the same result. so I grabbed a solenoid off an old injector at 27* (degrees) it read 2.6 ohm so as I worked on other stuff I set it next to a drop light to warm it up and at 95* it read 2.9 ohm. I put used it on injector #6.

I sodered, and shrink wrap all the bad wires at the 42 pin connector, cleared the IDM codes, did a buzz test and no codes present I started it up and took it for a ride and now the truck feels like it has some power and no more service engine light.

I will put it to the test tomarrow when I get a load of hay.

[907DAVE]

Good to hear you made some forward progress......hope all goes well tomorrow!