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| Phoenix Switch-On-The-Fly Chip (DISCOUNTINUED) (Disabled) Power Hungry no longer sells the Phoenix/TS chip, but if you need custom tuning we can recommend a few really good tuners that will be able to still provide tuning and support for your chip. If you have any other questions or comments about the Phoenix/TS chip, please post it here. |
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#1
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You are right about K&N filters. If they are cleaned and oiled perfectly, they work pretty good as long as you get the stand-alone conical kit. Unfortunately, most folks don't read the directions and dry them with compressed air which immediately ruins the cotton gauze material. The drop-in replacement filter usually doesn't seal around the lid lip and allows a ton of dirt into the engine. To tell you the truth, the stock airbox works really well as long as it seals. It just takes too much perfection and time to justify using a K&N filter. Do what was said above. Put a huge cylindrical paper filter on it and run!!
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Tuning, PCM flashing, and burning chips for 7.3s since 2008. Repairing all aspects of 7.3L Powerstrokes for 25 years. Eight 7.3L PSDs in the driveway including a 1994 Crown Vic and 1973 F100/2002 F350. Looking for the next victim. |
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#2
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ok and what about a heat sheild? I like the idea of the 6637 but its just a filter without a heat sheild. I'm guessing the heat sheild isn't that important?
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#3
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Not really that important. For the most part, if you leave the original LH battery box intact, then you'll get as much cool air as you need. While you're cruising down the road, the difference in air temperature between shielded and non-shielded is minimal. When you think about our trucks which are intercooled, it makes even less difference in actual intake air temperature just before the air is routed into the cylinder heads.
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Tuning, PCM flashing, and burning chips for 7.3s since 2008. Repairing all aspects of 7.3L Powerstrokes for 25 years. Eight 7.3L PSDs in the driveway including a 1994 Crown Vic and 1973 F100/2002 F350. Looking for the next victim. |
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#4
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Um, don't know what you mean by a heat shield, but I and many many others run the heck out of the 6637 without problems.
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Bob- 2003 F250 Lariat 7.3PSD CC SB FX4 Kwik (6637) Filter, RE 2.5" leveling kit, F350 Rear Blocks, TC Lock, Fumoto, EBPV/Exhaust Brake,6.0 Tranny Cooler, AIH Delete, IssPro EV2 Gauges, PHP Phoenix stock, 25tow, 40tow, 65tow, 80dd, 100perf, In-tank mods, Muffler Delete, WW, FRx,HPx, JW Stage 1 Trans, Swamps HV/HF IDM -Pulling a 38' Forest River Sierra 5th Wheel |
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#5
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ok well I'm going to go ahead and try the 6637 and see how i like it. I have a while before I am home and i can actually do anything anyways so everything is going to add up and get put on at once when i get back.
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#6
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Just something that is between the engine and the filter to block heat. Don't have one on mine and it werks good!
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'06 6.0 F350 CCLB KR. stock...
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#7
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I run the AFE Stage II w/ Pro Gaurd 7 dry filter. Nice kit, provides lot's of air. Filter gets dirty real quick. After being educated in the 6637 and seeing it on other rigs, sure wish I would have saved the $450.00.
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2003 F250 7.3 PSD CC SB FX4 DP Tuner F6, 160/80 Sticks, Diamond Eye 4 Inch Exhaust, AFE Stage II Intake, DieselSite:Turbomaster Wastegate Control, AIH Delete, BRV+, Intercooler and Engine Boot Kit |
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#8
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well, I just ordered the 6637 so that will be going as soon as i get home. I also ordered a gauge piller too. I cant believe how expensive the gauges are though. I think im only going to go with boost and EGT gauge though, considering i shouldnt have much need to tranny temp since i run a manual tranny right?
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#9
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My biggest gripe with the factory airboxes on these trucks is the two piece design of it. That was my primary reason to go to a 6637. Looked at a 7.3l to buy one time that had a cracked upper filter housing, not good. Terrible blow by but the guy was convinced it needed only injectors.
You should be fine without a tranny temp with a manual. There isn't too much of a concern of heat buildup as you don't have clutch packs and other things making friction to heat up as there is in an auto. At first its fun to make the gauges work but after you get over that the boost gauge serves as a nice "econo-meter"(making it move as little as possible).
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Thomas H. '97 F-250 CCSB 7.3L Auto, Gauges, Modded H2E, 285/200% sticks, 7.3L IC, Stealth Dual HPOP, Pheonix chip '03 F-250 CCSB 6.0L Auto, Gryphon CTS, FICM tuning by PHP, Powermax |
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#10
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Good deal, the gauges are important one you get a chip because the EGT's will start to get hotter and that's what can kill your truck! Where did you get your stuff from?
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Bob- 2003 F250 Lariat 7.3PSD CC SB FX4 Kwik (6637) Filter, RE 2.5" leveling kit, F350 Rear Blocks, TC Lock, Fumoto, EBPV/Exhaust Brake,6.0 Tranny Cooler, AIH Delete, IssPro EV2 Gauges, PHP Phoenix stock, 25tow, 40tow, 65tow, 80dd, 100perf, In-tank mods, Muffler Delete, WW, FRx,HPx, JW Stage 1 Trans, Swamps HV/HF IDM -Pulling a 38' Forest River Sierra 5th Wheel |
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