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1973 to 1985 Carburated Vehicles
Emissions laden vehicles, but still simple enough to work on and we still love 'em!


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  #1  
Old Sun, September 20th, 2009, 01:11 AM
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Cody,

Wouldn't you want to use a chip and live tune it???
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Old Sun, September 20th, 2009, 09:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Power Hungry View Post
Cody,

Wouldn't you want to use a chip and live tune it???

Probably not.
The only thing I might want to have the ability to change would be the shift strategies between a street tune and an all-out race tune (or how many "in-betweens" I might want).

The main problem encountered when using the stock PCM in this case is the lack
of a knock sensor. Not to mention the countless hours fiddling with A/F ratio when under boost (I'll need higher-flowing injectors anyway) and I really don't want to have to spend tons of time tuning it for detonation problems.

With the Dynojet PC5/Autotune combination wired in (more wiring.... ), it will be as easy as installing a knock sensor, a wideband O2, and typing in what I want my A/F ratio to be under any load/RPM. After I drive it for a while, VOILA!! It's just "tuned" itself.


But in reality, who knows? I will be in touch if I need anything.
Thanks, Bill!
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Old Fri, September 25th, 2009, 12:44 AM
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Hmm, boost, there's an interesting point I didn't know last time I was reading. I'm liking your project more and more. Turbocharging your choice for boosting?
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Old Fri, September 25th, 2009, 08:32 AM
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Oops. I forgot to mention that.

Yes, turbocharging is in the works after a naturally aspirated dyno.

A friend of mine turbocharged his '89 F-150 with a 300-6. He spent a long time tuning it using MegaSquirt and he ended up with 300 RWHP. The funny thing is that he also ended up with 575 ft. lbs. of torque at the rear wheels....at less than 3800 RPM.

So it's my turn now. I am hooked.
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Old Fri, March 5th, 2010, 02:45 PM
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Well, the truck is FINALLY in the shop. I've wasted about 4 hours total trying to graft the old oval port headers to the square port heads and came up with the conclusion that the original '91 manifolds will have to work just fine. My only hang up on the exhaust will be driving it 60 miles to Billings so an exhaust shop can make new head pipes (about 18" long a piece) and run them into my existing exhaust system. Open manifolds get really annoying quick.

In any case, I am about to run the power steering lines into town and get some new ones made that will go from the new Saginaw ( ) pump to my steering box. Getting rid of that whining POS Ford pump will be awesome.

I've got the wiring harness laid out and I'm sitting here trying to figure out what I want to hack out and what needs to stay. I've ripped off all of the idiotic vacuum solenoids and wiring for things like the EGR that have no purpose in life.

I am also trying to come up with a way for the accelerator pedal to work....going from a mechanical linkage to a cable. I'll figure something out.

I'm hoping that I can use my Holley "blue" fuel pump to feed the high pressure frame-mounted pump. The blue pump is a low pressure pump so I shouldn't have any problems but .

I plan on mounting everything that needs to stay with the harness exactly like it's wired into the harness so it minimizes splicing so a lot of stuff will be mounted in precarious places but it will be done right. Keep in mind, the vans had things mounted a little differently than the pickups. I have a row of four connectors right above the thermostat housing...but that's where the stuff was in the van, so that's where it will be in the pickup.
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  #6  
Old Sun, March 7th, 2010, 02:31 AM
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Whoa....just saw this. Looks like a cool project!
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Old Sun, March 7th, 2010, 09:15 AM
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I'd say that the gas pedal would be the easiest thing to fix compared to some of the other stuff your doing. I would attatch the cable like I would for a go cart or bicycle. Then so that the pedal doesn't drop and cause WOT I'd counter weight it with a heavy spring.
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