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Gryphon Programmer (Disabled) Edge Product has discontinued the Edge Evolution 2, but we still provide support and tuning for it. If you have a question or comment relating the Gryphon (or Evolution) programmer, post it here. |
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#1
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milehigh, hows things in colorado? i cant wait to go up elk hunting next fall....
your not the 1st person ive heard claim better results from lvl2(87) over the lvl3(91+) tune. i havent even tried out my lvl3 yet because i like the lvl2 so much, and ive had my gryph for abt a month or a little longer. I dont plan on using the lvl3 much at all either because as far as im concerned the benefits will be offset with the additional price of higher octance gas. as for mileage, idk what ur getting but im getting 16.5+mpg rt now with 33's, trying to get up to 17. the best i ever got w my 5.4 was 19mpg, before i got bigger tires so i think my mileage is just right for my setup. i also drive 80miles a day so i thought id throw that in for comparison(but you are at a much higher elev. than me). on the lvl3 i think that some gas could actually be wasted. dumping to much into the injectors to fully utilize. but that's just a suspicion. Bill would be able to provide a btr explanation on what the lvl3 tune consists of. that brings us to the tranny issues. You will see btr mileage from lvl2 over lvl3 because the lvl2 tow tune has lower shift points. ive been noticing that running lvl2 im almost always in 4th gear, thus getting higher IMPG's. this is more beneficial for mileage than a tune that lets you 'wrap-out' each gear further/longer,with higher shift points. the principal here is to get into higher gears(numerically) faster, and increase mileage. as for your hard shifting, unfortunately idk what to say. if u have the shift firmness adjusted all the way down and your still having violent WOT shifts, let off or ease back a bit and let that baby shift. then get bk on it. i do this sometimes to get into higher gear faster instead of letting the tranny 'hang' for longer. By the same token, there are times when my truck loses speed/power gng up long hills. i dont worry abt this...the alternative is a quicker downshift and less mpgs. this is why i like the canned lvl 2 tow tune so much. when i need it power is def. there, in the meantime im getting good economy. hope this helps and keep us posted on the hard shifting issue. peace
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1999 f150 4x4 - Flowmaster 40 series exhaust - 33" BFG M/T km2's - PHP Gryphon Programmer - RotorPros Slotted rotors - Mag-Hytec Diff Cvr Let's go Wheelin!!! |
#2
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Haven't been running my truck hard. Waiting for a call back from PHP. I've played with the Shift-Firmness setting and, right now, I have it set for +4 (1-2) , +4 (2-3) , +4 (3-4) and the truck shifts perfect under normal driving conditions on my custom tow setting #2 AND custom performance setting #3. However, any aggressive throttle from gear 1 to gear 2, I can start to feel the hard shift condition so I haven't opened it up in over a month now...
Am I the only one experiencing this? I was wondering if it might have to do with the RPMs at which the transmission is set to shift. If the truck is still pulling hard at higher RPMs, would the transmission shift harder based on engine load? What if you let the truck shift at higher RPMs, when you can feel the power start to cut out, would this allow for a lighter shift based on engine load? Are these even related? I really want to get this figured out. I have a buddy with a tacoma talking trash. |
#3
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Ok, I just left a post on the moderator forum.
Just tell your buddy that its better to not be able to accelerate than to not be able to stop. ![]()
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#4
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@Longshot , message delivered. He's pissed HAHAHA.
Thanks for the moderator msg delivery. I'd really like to get this figured out... driving me crazy... |
#5
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MileHigh - It's possible you may NEVER get what you want here. The firmness settings are really for the WOT shifts. Cranking up the firmness causes the clutch bands to reingage more quickly at the end of the shift, resulting in less slippage.
You really shouldn't notice a part throttle shift much at all, other than to hear a change in engine speed and feel possibly a slight "lurch". I think you should go the other way on firmness in the 1-2 upshift, possibly into negative territory, if it feels too harsh at WOT. If you like the way the others feel, leave them alone. I doubt reducing the 1-2 upshift firmness is going to be that noticeable at part throttle, but at WOT, it should feel "tamer". You really don't want a hard "lurch" during a shift anyway, because that lurch is telling you you're putting stress on the driveline. At the same time, you don't want a SLOWWW reduction in RPM as the bands begin to "grip", because that wears them out. It's a bit of a balancing act. In driving a manual shift vehicle, I feel I've done it properly if the clutch is released quickly and the accelerator is depressed quickly at the same time so that I don't really feel it and, I've done all this so fast (gotten the shift lever out of the lower gear and into the next gear) that the engine RPM has only dropped to the new gear speed. That's the feeling I'd really like to have with an automatic. - Jack
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2024 F150 Platinum SCrew 3.5L PowerBoost FX4, Peragon Tonneau Cover, LineX Bed, 35% Window Tint on All Sides and Rear, Full Nose Paint Protection Film, Husky Mud Guards, Lasfit Floor Liners, VIOFO Dash Cam |
#6
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Jack,
Thanks for the info. I have tried that as well. I found -8 to -10 between gears 1&2 (*edit* at WOT) gives a solid transmission shift with little to no "lurch". However, this also leaves me with a soft shift shudder under normal driving conditions. I hear bad things about shudders. Again, it's only for 1-2 shifts. 2-3/3-4 are great and always have been. I wish I could post a hi-res video of what is happening... This has no relevance to Timing does it? -MileHigh |
#7
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I suspect this is something Bill can adjust for in a custom tune though. He not only adjusts the "firmness" setting that you can play with, but he also adjusts line pressures and the torque dive that occurs in a shift. I'd guess one of these needs changing. I'm sure he can put an updated tune file on the server for you when he gets time. In the meantime, though, do what Longshot suggested. Simply load the custom tow tune you have, DO NOT make any custom option changes and try that one. You can use it with the higher octane gas, so that's not a problem. If the truck shifts more to your liking, Bill would need to know this, and, if there's no improvement, that's important data too. - Jack |
#8
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![]() ![]() Try out the level 2 tow tune for a bit to see what you think of those shifts and compare them to what you are experiencing now. You should be fine with the CAI since that tune runs richer. I could be that
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