2007 F150 5.4L with Gryphon

[Caforddude]

It does not hit when driving at speed. It hits after I have a driven a distance, short or small and then slow to pull into my garage or drive through a parking lot. It starts to run really rough like it is going to stall but does not quite stall.

I have also noticed it is a hard start now. Previously I would turn the key and fire right up after one crank and now it seems to take several cranks. It has never "not" started but I have been worried a time or two. I thought it is possible the battery was in need of replacing as it is 18 months old or so and with the extreme heat we have out here maybe it had gone dead but I am not so sure now. I was up in the mountains today and my truck got snow covered and sat in 24* weather for 6 hours and fired right up on the first try, so I think maybe the battery is ok.

My brother in law is a mechanic and said he thought he had heard of a TSB regarding this very issue so I am going to explore that avenue also.

I'll keep ya posted and try to answer any questions to the best of my ability.

[Caforddude]

SO quick question. I had gotten a p1000 code and was told somewhere else that is going to be a warranty breaker when I take it in to the shop?

Any ideas if that would be true or if there is a way to get rid of it?

Truck goes in the sho today and has been returned to stock for several days

[Grabber523]

p1000 means your PCM is witing to complete a drive-cycle. If they see that code at the dealership it tells them one of 2 things:

1. you just disconnected your battery, no big deal
2. you have re-flashed your PCM, big deal

I'll try to find the drive cycle procedure from my Mustang Forum and post it up.

[Grabber523]

here is what I could find on the driving cycle procedure, here is the link Ford Motor Company Driving Cycle (from Moddedmustangs.com)



Drive Cycle Procedure
Purpose of
Drive Cycle Procedure
Drive Cycle
Preparation

1. Install scan tool. Turn key on with the engine off. Cycle key off, then on. Select appropriate Vehicle & Engine qualifier. Clear all DTC's/ Perform a PCM Reset.

2. Begin to monitor the following PIDs: ECT, EVAPDC, FLI (if available) and TP MODE.
Start vehicle WITHOUT returning to Key Off.

3. Idle vehicle for 15 seconds. Drive at 64 Km/h (40 MPH) until ECT is at least 76.7°C (170° F).

4. Is IAT within 4.4 to 37.8°C (40 to 100° F)? If Not, complete the following steps but, note that step 14 will be required to "bypass " the Evap monitor and clear the P1000. Engine warm-up and provide IAT input to the PCM.
HEGO

5. Cruise at 64 Km/h (40 MPH) for up to 4 minutes. Executes the HEGO monitor.

6. Cruise at 72 to 104 Km/h (45 to 65 MPH) for 10 minutes (avoid sharp turns and hills) Note, to initiate the monitor: TP MODE should =PT, EVAPDC must be >75%, and FLI must be between 15 and 85% Executes the EVAP Monitor (If IAT is within 4.4 to 37.8° (40 to 100°F))

7. Drive in stop and go traffic conditions. Include five different constant cruise speeds, ranging from 40 to 72 Km/h (25 to 45 MPH) over a 10 minute period. Executes the Catalyst Monitor.

8. From a stop, accelerate to 72 Km/h (45 MPH) at 1/2 to 3/4 throttle. Repeat 3 times. Executes the EGR Monitor.

9. Bring the vehicle to a stop. Idle with transmission in drive (neutral for M/T) for 2 minutes. Executes the ISC portion of the CCM.

10. For M/T, accelerate from 0 to 80 Km/h (o to 50 MPH), continue to step 11. For A/T, from a stop and in overdrive, moderately accelerate to 80 Km/h (50 MPH) and cruise for at least 15 seconds. Stop vehicle and repeat without overdrive to 64 Km/h (40 MPH) cruising for at least 30 seconds. While at 64 Km/h (40 MPH) , activate overdrive and accelerate to 80 Km/h (50 MPH) and cruise for at least 15 seconds. Stop for at least 20 seconds and repeat step 10 five times. Executes the transmission portion of the CCM.
Misfire & Fuel Monitors

11. From a stop, accelerate to 104 Km/h (65 MPH). Decelerate at closed throttle until 64 Km/h (40 MPH) (no brakes). Repeat this 3 times. Allows learning for the misfire monitor.

12. Access the ON-Board System Readiness (OBDII monitor status) function on the scan tool. Determine whether all non-continuous monitors have completed. If not, go to step 13. Determines if any monitor has not completed. Pending Code Check and Evap Monitor "Bypass" Check

13. With the scan tool, check for pending codes. Conduct normal repair procedures for any pending code concern. Otherwise, rerun any incomplete monitor.
Note: if the EVAP monitor is not complete AND IAT was out of the 4.4 to 37.8° C (40 to 100° F) temperature range in step #4, or the altitude is over 2438 m. (8000 ft.), the Evap "bypass" procedure must be followed.
Proceed to step 14. Determines if a pending code is preventing the clearing of P1000. Evap Monitor "Bypass"

14. Park vehicle for a minimum of 8 hours. Repeat steps 2 through 12. DO NOT REPEAT STEP 1. Allow the "bypass" counter to increment to two.

[Caforddude]

Well no firm diagnosis yet but they are telling me they think both came are bad as they were getting codes from both sides when they were driving it with there fancy computer hooked up to it. They said posibbly an oil change issue if using poor quality filters something inside the filter might get broke off inside and block some filter

As of now they said it looks like warranty covered cam replacements. It I will let you know for sure when I get the final word

[Caforddude]

Well after having the truck for a full day they have not yet decided what the problem is or what to do to fix it.

They tell me they have NEVER seen codes from both cams at the same time unless there is an oil issue.

For now I gotz a stinkin rental car that is costing me an arm and a leg.

Bill, I know you said you had not been doing any cam adjustments on vehicles with CAI's but that you were gonna look at mine. Did you get the opportunity to look at the coding?

[Power Hungry]

Aaron,

I went back and looked at all the files we did for you and as I suspected, there are not any camshaft adjustments in your files. Even if there were, I'd have serious doubts that it would cause any sort of problem. I've seen tuning with more aggressive camshaft adjustments than anything we do and it just doesn't cause problems. In fact, the Roush stuff used on the supercharged setups is WAY more aggressive than anything we do and they work quite well.

I'd say that if the camshaft phasers are bad that it is most likely related to a lubrication problem. It's possible something related to the filter could be the cause, but I think even that's highly unlikely. I can't recall ever seeing a bad oil filter in 15 years of automotive service... even the cheap crap that some of the 10 minute oil change places use. I would say that it is more likely that there might have been some rubbish on the "wrong" side of the filter which got pushed into the oil gallery and eventually up into the heads.

Of course, this is all speculation. I guess the dealer will know more when they pull the camshafts out and check to see what's actually restricting oil flow to the cam phasers.

Hope it all works out well.