Custom Tune Installed

[Jackpine]

Darren, unless you know something I don't know (which is VERY possible), the HP and torque are dropping on our engines above 5000 RPM. If you look at your WOT shift points in the custom options menu, I think you'll find that Bill has set the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts near that RPM range. If so, I would not raise them. The 3-4 shift is likely to be lower, possibly around 4500? Again, I would not raise it. I tried raising mine and discovered it seemed to have trouble completing a WOT 3-4 shift, even though my max RPM was 5400.

I also wouldn't raise the max RPM much above 5400 because of TC ballooning, and I like to keep the stress off the transmission as much as possible.

I have my speed limiter set at 110 mph. Net because I really expect to drive that fast, but I DO NOT want it to ever kick in when I'm expecting more speed, as in passing.

[DarrenWS6]

Originally Posted by BlackSTX

Glad to hear you liking it. I can't wait to get mine. I'm looking forward to getting some more bottom end out of it... heavy truck w/ only 3.55's and a 4.6L, not the best combination for getting off the line.

lol true. It will be a night and day difference.

Originally Posted by JackandJanet

Darren, unless you know something I don't know (which is VERY possible), the HP and torque are dropping on our engines above 5000 RPM. If you look at your WOT shift points in the custom options menu, I think you'll find that Bill has set the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts near that RPM range. If so, I would not raise them. The 3-4 shift is likely to be lower, possibly around 4500? Again, I would not raise it. I tried raising mine and discovered it seemed to have trouble completing a WOT 3-4 shift, even though my max RPM was 5400.

I also wouldn't raise the max RPM much above 5400 because of TC ballooning, and I like to keep the stress off the transmission as much as possible.

I have my speed limiter set at 110 mph. Net because I really expect to drive that fast, but I DO NOT want it to ever kick in when I'm expecting more speed, as in passing.

I have never heard of those factors before, but glad you mentioned it to me. Thank you Jack. Well so far it sounds like there aren't any reasons to change the settings in the 87 performance tune. Timing and everything should be alright? And spark? ( never messed with spark btw, running stock plugs I really dont want to either ). I haven't gotten the chance to play with it on a back road yet so I dont really know what I would change it to. I'm pretty sure Bluejay is running the rpm sets I was, but he suggested me those when I was on canned level 3 with 93.

I have noticed my idle rpm in gear is pretty low. I believe I noticed this after I first ran the canned Level 3, but it went away. I assume that the 480rpm idle is safe for now and will return to mid 500 or so after new strategies are learned?

[stryker6040]

sounds sweet, i cant wait for mine to come in!

[Jackpine]

Originally Posted by DarrenWS6

lol true. It will be a night and day difference.




I have never heard of those factors before, but glad you mentioned it to me. Thank you Jack. Well so far it sounds like there aren't any reasons to change the settings in the 87 performance tune. Timing and everything should be alright? And spark? ( never messed with spark btw, running stock plugs I really dont want to either ). I haven't gotten the chance to play with it on a back road yet so I dont really know what I would change it to. I'm pretty sure Bluejay is running the rpm sets I was, but he suggested me those when I was on canned level 3 with 93.

I have noticed my idle rpm in gear is pretty low. I believe I noticed this after I first ran the canned Level 3, but it went away. I assume that the 480rpm idle is safe for now and will return to mid 500 or so after new strategies are learned?

I don't know about the idle going up after everything is "learned". Mine never idled that low at all. It's always been about 600 RPM (using the dashboard tach), and since it was smooth and things were charging and it didn't want to "creep" with my foot off the brake, I saw no reason to change it. But, 480 RPM IS pretty low. I wonder if it's enough to charge the battery at idle with the lights and accessories on? If not, I'd raise it. Most people have theirs in the 600-650 range.

I saw your post over on f150Online and was a bit puzzled by one member's statement that Bill said to have the max RPM 200 above the WOT shift points. Both Bluejay and I remember him saying 400 above. But, since Bill lives here, he can set us straight. I know 400 above works well for me except in the 3-4 shift, where it needs to be more (which is one reason I have my 3-4 shift down in the 4400-4500 range). When I had that shift point higher, I had to let off on the gas to help it through that shift.

The Edge manual does say put the max RPM 150 above the WOT shift points, but I think that's just plain wrong.

DO NOT raise the spark timing on any of your tunes unless you put in a higher octane gas than the tune was designed for.

Bluejay published the adjustments he did for when he was running canned Edge tunes. Once he got the custom tunes, he's left everything exactly as Bill has set it up except for the tires, he went to bigger ones after ordering his tunes.

- Jack

[DarrenWS6]

Originally Posted by JackandJanet

I don't know about the idle going up after everything is "learned". Mine never idled that low at all. It's always been about 600 RPM (using the dashboard tach), and since it was smooth and things were charging and it didn't want to "creep" with my foot off the brake, I saw no reason to change it. But, 480 RPM IS pretty low. I wonder if it's enough to charge the battery at idle with the lights and accessories on? If not, I'd raise it. Most people have theirs in the 600-650 range.

I saw your post over on f150Online and was a bit puzzled by one member's statement that Bill said to have the max RPM 200 above the WOT shift points. Both Bluejay and I remember him saying 400 above. But, since Bill lives here, he can set us straight. I know 400 above works well for me except in the 3-4 shift, where it needs to be more (which is one reason I have my 3-4 shift down in the 4400-4500 range). When I had that shift point higher, I had to let off on the gas to help it through that shift.

The Edge manual does say put the max RPM 150 above the WOT shift points, but I think that's just plain wrong.

DO NOT raise the spark timing on any of your tunes unless you put in a higher octane gas than the tune was designed for.

Bluejay published the adjustments he did for when he was running canned Edge tunes. Once he got the custom tunes, he's left everything exactly as Bill has set it up except for the tires, he went to bigger ones after ordering his tunes.

- Jack

Well let me better explain the idle issue. Coming to a stop at a slow speed ( 30mph to 5mph ) basically approaching a red light or stop sign, from the Gryphon readout it drops down to near 480 then varies in the low 500 - high 500, then acceleration is perfect, but it seems quite low for an idle in gear. I tried raising the idle before but it only let me increase it to 300rpm? Does that mean 300rpm overall? or 300rpm over the normal 600rpm? I dont understand how this works.

Thanks again Jack for the clarification, much appreciated

[Jackpine]

Originally Posted by DarrenWS6

Well let me better explain the idle issue. Coming to a stop at a slow speed ( 30mph to 5mph ) basically approaching a red light or stop sign, from the Gryphon readout it drops down to near 480 then varies in the low 500 - high 500, then acceleration is perfect, but it seems quite low for an idle in gear. I tried raising the idle before but it only let me increase it to 300rpm? Does that mean 300rpm overall? or 300rpm over the normal 600rpm? I dont understand how this works.

Thanks again Jack for the clarification, much appreciated

Good questions, Darren - don't stop asking them. I think you're seeing an RPM dip as you apply the brakes while you're still rolling? And, if this is the case, I've not seen it (probably because I haven't looked) and I don't have a clue if this is normal or not. Back in the bad old days we used to have a damper in the carburetor to prevent sudden drops like that (which could stall the engine).

However, it sounds like maybe your idle RPM is fairly normal (in the 600 range) when you are just sitting there stopped? And, when you step on the gas, everything increases normally? If this is the case, then I don't think there's anything to worry about.

About the only thing you need to worry about in the idle setting is: "Is it charging my battery?" If you see voltage (on the Gryphon, which I monitor) in the 13.5-14.0 volt range in idle with lights and accessories on, you're OK. Underdirive pulleys can reduce the alternator output and may require you to increase the idle speed. And, in case you wondered why I monitor voltage, it's because I sometimes pull a trailer with two batteries and a refrigerator on board. So, that's a pretty heavy electrical load.

The adjustment in idle in the Custom Options menu is plus or minus from the "baseline" RPM. So, if Bill set your idle RPM at 600, and you adjusted it to +100, you should see 700 RPM (approximately) when stopped. I say approximately, because I suspect the drag of the TC will have some effect on the final result.

- Jack

[DarrenWS6]

Originally Posted by JackandJanet

Good questions, Darren - don't stop asking them. I think you're seeing an RPM dip as you apply the brakes while you're still rolling? And, if this is the case, I've not seen it (probably because I haven't looked) and I don't have a clue if this is normal or not. Back in the bad old days we used to have a damper in the carburetor to prevent sudden drops like that (which could stall the engine).

However, it sounds like maybe your idle RPM is fairly normal (in the 600 range) when you are just sitting there stopped? And, when you step on the gas, everything increases normally? If this is the case, then I don't think there's anything to worry about.

About the only thing you need to worry about in the idle setting is: "Is it charging my battery?" If you see voltage (on the Gryphon, which I monitor) in the 13.5-14.0 volt range in idle with lights and accessories on, you're OK. Underdirive pulleys can reduce the alternator output and may require you to increase the idle speed. And, in case you wondered why I monitor voltage, it's because I sometimes pull a trailer with two batteries and a refrigerator on board. So, that's a pretty heavy electrical load.

The adjustment in idle in the Custom Options menu is plus or minus from the "baseline" RPM. So, if Bill set your idle RPM at 600, and you adjusted it to +100, you should see 700 RPM (approximately) when stopped. I say approximately, because I suspect the drag of the TC will have some effect on the final result.

- Jack

I am seeing it during breaking, so I suppose it is normal? Hopefully. I monitor everything like a hawk, even look at my dipstick every week lol. Ok i'll keep that in mind, The most work my battery usually does is play music with the windows down while i'm working outside or at a campfire, nothing real major. I still have the stock battery too, it is indeed a trooper. And thanks for clarifying the idle adjusting for me, thats exactly what I wanted to know. And obviously, returning it to 0 will be normal idle? Jack, thanks yet again for the information, much appreciated. Learning more and more every day.

[Jackpine]

Originally Posted by DarrenWS6

I am seeing it during breaking, so I suppose it is normal? Hopefully. I monitor everything like a hawk, even look at my dipstick every week lol. Ok i'll keep that in mind, The most work my battery usually does is play music with the windows down while i'm working outside or at a campfire, nothing real major. I still have the stock battery too, it is indeed a trooper. And thanks for clarifying the idle adjusting for me, thats exactly what I wanted to know. And obviously, returning it to 0 will be normal idle? Jack, thanks yet again for the information, much appreciated. Learning more and more every day.

Yes, Darren, setting the idle in the Custom Options menu back to zero will put it at the stock tune setting that Bill created for you.

There may be an easier way though to get totally back to the "virgin" custom tune - just program it in and completely bypass the Custom Options step. Or, if you want to have a "Previous Settings" file that is mostly "virgin", open the Custom Options menu but DO NOT "Load Previous Settings". If I've got this right, you are now in the process of creating a NEW "Previous Settings" file, but most of the settings are what Bill wrote for you. There are two exceptions though - Tire Size (TS) and Gear Ratio (GR). One or both of those values will now likely be wrong and you'll have to manually set them. Check both and adjust as necessary. Then, scroll to "Done" and let it program. The new Previous Settings file will hold Bill's values and your TS and GR.

As I said though, I don't know if the RPM drop during braking is normal or not, since I don't recall ever looking at it. I don't think I get that big a drop, but I cannot be sure.

And, I'd give Bill's settings a try before trying to "customize" them. After all, it's what you paid him for. Also, if you don't like something in them, it's probably best to discuss that with Bill, so he can fix the root cause, which is different than you putting a "band aid" on it with "Custom Options".

- Jack

[Chris74]

Originally Posted by JackandJanet

Darren, unless you know something I don't know (which is VERY possible), the HP and torque are dropping on our engines above 5000 RPM. If you look at your WOT shift points in the custom options menu, I think you'll find that Bill has set the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts near that RPM range. If so, I would not raise them. The 3-4 shift is likely to be lower, possibly around 4500? Again, I would not raise it. I tried raising mine and discovered it seemed to have trouble completing a WOT 3-4 shift, even though my max RPM was 5400.

I also wouldn't raise the max RPM much above 5400 because of TC ballooning, and I like to keep the stress off the transmission as much as possible.

I have my speed limiter set at 110 mph. Net because I really expect to drive that fast, but I DO NOT want it to ever kick in when I'm expecting more speed, as in passing.

I've had my truck dynoed........and with my setup, I was still building power at 5000 rpm's.

My power actually topped out around the 5200 mark.......

[Jackpine]

Hi Chris - The 08's have a somewhat different power curve than earlier models. I think they DO drop off later. I know your engine can develop more power and torque than mine.

Regardless, I really think Bill will set the WOT shifts at the correct points to get you what you want. And, thinking about it a bit more, it makes sense to set the shift point somewhat past the peak HP and torque point because then the shift will bring in the next gear at a higher RPM setting, overall, giving you better acceleration (if WOT acceleration is your bag). This of course means the max RPM has to be set higher too, so that the shift can complete properly.

I DO want the acceleration, but I'm also interested in protecting the transmission, which I feel is a weak link in this truck. (Wish it was a manual).

- Jack