Getting ready to do mods ????

[epowers777]

Which way does the flap need to be (closest to actuator or farther) I think now its closer. i would like to just wire it shut so it cant open is that ok to do?

Also can someone help me get the part numbers for the exhaust donuts for the up pipe. They are leaking. One of the exhaust hangers cam undone so the weight of the echaust was hanging on the turbo. I need all 4 donuts upper and lower for the up pipe. Kragen or Napa had do idea what I was talking about. Both the parts guys asked what a powerstroke was!

[907DAVE]

You want the rod as short as you can get it, tighten it down as much as you can then use compressed air in the actuator port to hook it back up to the gate.

Remember, more boost does not always mean more power.

For the doughnuts you will only need 2, the lowers are a flared type connection.

Go to your Ford dealer for those.

[cleatus12r]

To get the wastegate actuator rod as short as it needs to be, you'll have to trim about 3/8" off of the threaded rod.

Yes, the Ford dealer will have the donuts...and they're pretty cheap. My money says you might as well buy new pipes as well because they'll actually be worn out where the donuts ride and they won't seal even with new donuts.

[epowers777]

On the turbo what is that exhaust flap for on the exhaust side?

[907DAVE]

It is a warm-up valve.

When engine is cold the computer will close that valve in an attempt to keep some heat in the engine for faster warm-up times and reduced emissions.

Some guys are using that valve as a exhaust brake, though I am not sure how effective this is. I do know this can create added backpressure and you run the risk of floating exhaust valves.

[epowers777]

Do we really need it? Does it restrict flow and can you kit it off?

[907DAVE]

Meh......When I took it off my truck and really did not notice a power increase, but I did not see a difference in warm-up times either.

I would say yard it, it can hurt to try.

[hayjayhorses]

Originally Posted by epowers777

So you are saying I can get these injectors (stage 1) for my truck and they will work but I need to get new tunes from php? Doesnt each tune cost money cause I just bought the chip?

So how much would I have to spend in tuning?
If I am called in for smog in California will I pass?
Is the Harness the same?
Better mpg. Like how much?

Sorry for all the questions but I want to be a 100% positive before I spend that money.

In my 2000 F550, 4R100, 4:88, 4x4. I was getting 7.5 to 8 mpg round trip hauling hay, the same run 2-3 times a week. I put stock '94 to '97 90cc single shots, now I am getting 10.5 to 11 mpg that is huge at 1200miles per week.

It dose not have quite the top end power, due to 90cc vs. 140cc, but a lot qiucker and much better low end power. I have not got a chip yet (I have been so busy) I am getting a long with it, ruff idle is annoying.

If the chip doesn't help with the top end power I will, mill the intensifiers pistons for 120-140cc. I want to keep the fuel mileage

[epowers777]

Do I need to get friction modifier for my rear dually axle and my front axle they say dana on the caps

[hayjayhorses]

Originally Posted by epowers777

Do I need to get friction modifier for my rear dually axle and my front axle they say dana on the caps

Only if you have a limited slip or locking differential in the rear. Very unlikely you have a locker in the front. To tell if have a limited slip, jack up your truck so both wheels are off the ground, put in neutral, and spin on wheel if the other wheel spins the same way, you have a limited slip differential, add friction modifier

If the wheel spins the opposite direction, you have an open differential, no friction modifier needed.