The kd4crs/Power Hungry/Gotts Mod (revisited - and with pictures) - Page 13

Dfishrmn · #**121** Fri, February 20th, 2009, 10:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JackandJanet

Unhook the battery? No, I don't think so. unhooking it will FORCE the PCM to relearn everything over a period of several drive cycles, but, unless I'm totally wrong here, it relearns everything anyway, just at a slower rate. And, you possibly don't want it to get too fond of the intake in the engine compartment, since you're planning to get the inlet back into the fender well.

You COULD paint the PVC pipe black, you know.

My black painted hose clamp came out looking super and added at least 100 HP!

(Suppose I should post a picture of the final, glorious, all-black, $8 mod, right)?

I found the ABS in Home Depot. I think it may be sewer piping.

- Jack

Jack,
Boy that paint must get better with age! Last time you told it only added 30hp.

lanemeyer · #**122** Fri, February 20th, 2009, 10:46 PM

I think it has to do with the building codes in the area, no one carries the abs pipe.

Wow 100 HP that is amazing

***Jackpine*** · #**123** Fri, February 20th, 2009, 11:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lanemeyer

I think it has to do with the building codes in the area, no one carries the abs pipe.

Wow 100 HP that is amazing

And, maybe by tomorrow it will be 200HP!

Like "fine wine"....

Got to get that picture!

- Jack

***88Racing*** · #**124** Sat, February 21st, 2009, 06:45 AM

It's getting deep!

Lars

***Power Hungry*** · #**125** Sat, February 21st, 2009, 07:55 AM

Time to get the waders on.... :waders:

***Jackpine*** · #**126** Sat, February 21st, 2009, 07:29 PM

OK, here we are - the final "All Black" (apologies to the New Zealand Rugby team) version of my homemade CAI:

I compressed the bellows pretty much to give it some room to expand under engine torque and not pull the tube out of the fender wall. I noticed that earlier, when I had slid the bellows down the tube farther, it had pulled the tube out about 1/2 inch after a hard acceleration (because the engine twists away from the fender wall in this state).

Another view:

It's a fairly neat assembly, and even though the airflow curve is not as "smooth" as I'd like, I think it directs the flow fairly well.

- Jack

lynn2437 · #**127** Mon, March 2nd, 2009, 12:28 AM

I understand why I need to unhook my battery, but for how long and also what terminal? I have reasearched alot on this mod and others like it and I'm getting conflicting times (from ten minutes to 24 hours) and differences on which terminal. I also read some where about turning on your lights or ignition or something to drain something? What does this mean.

Jack, Bill, anybody have clarifications for me?

Thanks,
Lynn

***Power Hungry*** · #**128** Mon, March 2nd, 2009, 02:09 AM

ALWAYS... ALWAYS... ALWAYS... unhook the NEGATIVE battery cable first. There's not conflicting story on this, this is how it is and is basic Mechanics 101. There are two reasons for this:

1) If you are wrenching on the positive terminal and happen to bump the body or any other metal part of the vehicle or engine, you have an instant arc welder. Since nearly every car manufactured today is "negative ground", meaning that the the negative battery terminal is attached to the body, frame, and engine, if you were to accidentally short your wrench while undoing the negative cable, nothing will happen. If you short across the battery terminals... well, it wouldn't matter which side you are working at that point.

2) If you remove the positive battery cable and it should happen to touch the negative battery terminal or body, there is a chance that you could cause a sudden capacitive discharge in any of the onboard electronics which could damage them.

After removing the NEGATIVE battery cable, many people say to turn on the headlight switch in order to induce a drain to discharge any residual stored voltage in any of the electronics, including the PCM. Since in most cases there is already about 300-500 mA of current draw on the vehicle's systems, not to mention additional load from the dome lamps (if the doors are still open) and the hood lamp (if it's not broken), turning on the headlights won't hurt but probably isn't necessary. I've always let it sit 10-15 minutes, but seriously doubt anything over 30 seconds is necessary. Considering that the KAM (Keep Alive Memory) is akin to the memory presets of your radio, you'll find out in short order how long it takes to clear the PCM.

Hope this helps.

lynn2437 · #**129** Mon, March 2nd, 2009, 02:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Power Hungry

ALWAYS... ALWAYS... ALWAYS... unhook the NEGATIVE battery cable first. There's not conflicting story on this, this is how it is and is basic Mechanics 101. There are two reasons for this:

1) If you are wrenching on the positive terminal and happen to bump the body or any other metal part of the vehicle or engine, you have an instant arc welder. Since nearly every car manufactured today is "negative ground", meaning that the the negative battery terminal is attached to the body, frame, and engine, if you were to accidentally short your wrench while undoing the negative cable, nothing will happen. If you short across the battery terminals... well, it wouldn't matter which side you are working at that point.

2) If you remove the positive battery cable and it should happen to touch the negative battery terminal or body, there is a chance that you could cause a sudden capacitive discharge in any of the onboard electronics which could damage them.

After removing the NEGATIVE battery cable, many people say to turn on the headlight switch in order to induce a drain to discharge any residual stored voltage in any of the electronics, including the PCM. Since in most cases there is already about 300-500 mA of current draw on the vehicle's systems, not to mention additional load from the dome lamps (if the doors are still open) and the hood lamp (if it's not broken), turning on the headlights won't hurt but probably isn't necessary. I've always let it sit 10-15 minutes, but seriously doubt anything over 30 seconds is necessary. Considering that the KAM (Keep Alive Memory) is akin to the memory presets of your radio, you'll find out in short order how long it takes to clear the PCM.

Hope this helps.

Thats what I knew also (always negative first). I am glad you clarified for those who may be unsure because there are posts on other forums telling people to unhook positive and/or negative and I wanted to make sure if it was just negative or both posts.

I did the mod today and everything turned out great. Noticed a nice bump in throttle response. Great mod IMO!

-Lynn

***Jackpine*** · #**130** Mon, March 2nd, 2009, 11:45 PM

Glad you liked the mod, Lynn. I'm not really sure I can feel any big change, but it was sure fun to do. And, it SEEMS like it should do better at high RPMs.

I saw a post in another forum that talked about touching the positive cable to the negative post. It gave me a "queasy" feeling, but I couldn't really see any super harm. I DO like Bill's opinion though. From personal testing, there's a lot of things sucking current all the time, so very soon after you disconnect the negative cable, the whole system is going to be dead.

And, boy; if you should happen to touch a ground while unscrewing the positive terminal (with the negative still connected), the number of amps that would suddenly try to go through your wrench would probably light up a whole city! OK, not quite, but the spark and heat would be pretty scary!

- Jack