Tackling the next generation of Ford diesel

[F-127]

Some first numbers. 16.2 mpgs on the first MPG calulation. This thing does have a couple things already done prior to purchase: turbo-back exhaust less cat, AEM Bruteforce intake, and a Bully Dog tuner. The 180 mile trip after the purchase to home was made with programmer in unknown setting, an ignition on wire for the programmer was disconnected. Once fixed, the rest of the miles were in various levels, not always light on the pedal. Yeah I know, CTS will get swapped out from the 97(getting some ICP data) and into the 03 soon enough.

Once again
'03 F-250 6.0 CCSB stock wheels/tire size/height, 3.73 gearing
Total miles: 231.5
MPG: 16.2
Mods: AEM intake, Turbo back exhaust, Rev-X engine oil and fuel additive
ECM: VXAP1N6
Tuning: Bully Dog, setting unknown, 75% of time, various settings other 25%
Known misc. things: Exhaust leak at the cylinder head-exhaust manifold on one port, Truxedo bed cover, Turbo vanes seems to be free(can be heard sweeping at idle)

I'd really prefer to get more miles on the truck to provide more concrete info before making changes but I'm driving my 97 while I can and before it's stashed for winter. Opps I should have that "w" word.

I'll try to keep updates given as things progress, should be with not quite so much information, now that there is some presented. I'd really like to get this thing to be making MPGs like my '95 7.3, which averaged about 17, summer/winter, city/highway, occassional towing, whatever. Think the Super Duties are a bit heavier but I think it'll be possible.

[F-127]

First 'write-up' on a coolant flush plus a few misc things. In my mind its one of the top things to do to a 6.0. I went with Restore coolant flush from Fleetguard. Fleetguard also offers a Restore Plus. Restore is geared for cleaning silicate gel and oil/grease/fuel, while Restore Plus is geared for rust, scale, and solder bloom.(taken from brochure here)

To start with, drain the coolant. There is a radiator drain on the lower left side of the radiator, fairly self explainatory, loosen to drain. It would be a good idea to take out the block drain for on the left side of the block(the right side is pretty much covered by the starter). The drain can be removed using an 8mm allen. Block drain is pictured below.



Next, the Restore can be added to the cooling system, 1 gallon per 10 gallons of coolant capacity, I found a capacity of 27.5 qts including recovery tank. Fill remaining with water.

Turn the heater control to full heat to allow max coolant flow through heater core.

Run the engine at normal operating temperature for 2 hours(note, not recommended to leave coolant cleaner in system for more than 3 hours).

Drain coolant system, radiator and block, and flush with tap water, change coolant filter if installed. Flush more if desired. I did a couple times.

Fill system with appropriate coolant and mixture, a lot say to go with an extended life coolant but I didn't feel it was necessary, I went with a coolant meeting Ford spec.


While I letting coolant drain the first time, I did a few other things. The CAC pipes came with insulation, I had a hunch they might be holding more than what Ford designed them for, and I was right.

Factory insulation, so purdy



After a little peeling back, not so purdy.


So I pulled off all the insulation and with a few minutes at the wire wheel on the bench grinder and they were looking pretty good. I didn't have time to paint, since I was wanting to finish the coolant flush.
Lucky or not, I'm not sure yet, but I got a dual alternator equiped truck. Right side CAC tube reminds me of the OBS downpipe, although not quite as bad.


I also spent some time wiping all the grease of the boots and washed off the clamps as well. Amazing what difference it made for underhood looks with the minor amout of time it took.


Since I had the air filter out and CAC tubes as well. I found easy access to the EBP sensor. It can be removed with 1" or 25mm wrench or socket.



After making sure the pipe to manifold was clean I looked in the EBP sensor as well. Yeah it was dirty. I did my best to get it cleaned out, will probably go with a new one sometime.


Next up. Either going after just either EGR delete and exhaust manifold leak or a 'complete solution.'

[F-127]

Ok... I got a little carried away. My idea of one thing at a time, tracking mileage, is about completely thrown out the window..









Did the engine out method, did not want to tie up the car lift even with the original plan of just doing head gaskets since I was working ocassional weekends on it and I don't mind the way I went about it. Cylinder bores looked like new, rods were showing some wear towards the piston side. I'm having a feeling the Bully Dog programmer had some effect as I could see timing was advanced to the limit judging by the pattern on the pistons.

Going to go about with a OEM Ford rebuild kit, ARP headstuds, block decked, heads resurfaced and checked over, balanced, EGR delete, coolant filter, ECM should be on its way back from PHP with a rollback. A powermax was just too hard to turn down with a vendor selling on sale at 1100 shipped, so that'll be going too. Should be a solid daily driver when all done, and nice proof that the 6.0 is a solid engine as well.

Oh and I like this, factory provided hardware.

[cleatus12r]

Originally Posted by F-127

Oh and I like this, factory provided hardware.

Yeah, except that part is the main source of leaks on a 6.0L (besides the head gaskets )

[907DAVE]

Err... That seems like something I would do....haha.

Good luck with the rebuild!

[F-127]

Originally Posted by cleatus12r

Yeah, except that part is the main source of leaks on a 6.0L (besides the head gaskets )

Hey now, way to rain on my parade! lol.. yeah I was kinda thinking about the extra chances for leaks, instead of just the block to oil pan seal(1) on the bottom end of a 7.3, there are now... block to bedplate(1), bedplate to upper oil pan(2), and upper oil pan to lower oil pan(3).

[907DAVE]

He's just jealous......

[cleatus12r]

Originally Posted by F-127

A picture is worth a thousand dirty words....

[F-127]

UPDATE TIME!!

There's two updates. I'll break it into two posts. Here is one from 10/24

Finally got some work accomplished over the weekend. The engine is at my parents', I'm working away from home as of current. Brother picked up the things from the machine shop. Block was decked .006" to be trued up, pistons cut the same. Got some assembly done over the past weekend, cam, crank, and several pistons in. Installed the new engine oil cooler and chopped the old one up for giggles, didn't look too bad.

Coolant filter is going on immediately, probably going to wait on water pump replacement until the filter can work some magic cleaning out the cooling system.

Ordered up some final needed parts today. I was at the dealer looking for the rubber support/bushing for the HPOP branch tube, has anyone replaced just that? It looked like the rubber support was only servicable as part of the branch tube....I'm considering machining a replacement on the lathe out of plastic as the rubber piece was kind of chewed up.

[F-127]

Today's update:

Finally! It lives again. Took a while longer than I had hoped. I don't think I've tried as hard to have everything done right working on an engine and had as many issues arise as they did, but its all done now and running great. The Powermax has some nice top end, seems slower to spool than stock but its been a long time since I drove with the stock turbo. Running a CTS with EGT and fuel pressure sensor. I did not take that many pictures besides this piece that I made with some description about it.

On the left in the picture below is a piece of rubber that helped the support the HPOP branch tube. It was fastened in the back of the block. At 203k it seemed to be deteriorating. I could not find this at a Ford dealer, even looking at the parts diagrams with partsman. Seemed to be serviceable only with the branch tube replacement. On the right is my first rendition, a piece of plastic machined in a lathe to be a press fit. After thinking about engine temps I decided against it. Had I not forgotten to order the back plate o-ring seal, I may have installed it.



Here is my second rendition. A piece of aluminum, once again machined in a lathe, with grooves cut for o-rings. This was a piece I made myself. I saw no 'outward' support for the branch tube from the original piece, so I saw no need to make any provisions either.



I did replace the HPOP discharge tube, so the only o-rings that weren't replaced in the HPO system were the stainless hose pieces under the valve cover. So far so good. Only 365 miles on it. Last tank of 230ish miles of varied speeds for break-in I still pulled 16.7mpg.

Next mods, engine oil bypass(I tapped a hole in the upper oil pan for a return) or replace some idlers as preventative maintenance on the front of the enigne.... there are a lot... dual alternators. Maybe some videos to come of driving.