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| 1999 to 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel equipped Super Duty and Excursion. |
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#1
Wed, January 6th, 2010, 01:52 AM
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Does my blockheater work?
I have only tried plugging it in twice but both times I didnt hear or see anything when I plugged it in or the morning after when I woke up. Is there any way to tell if it is working?
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#2
Wed, January 6th, 2010, 03:17 AM
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You could try using a IR gun that you'd point at it.
Or an ohm meter to test to see if you have continuity throughout the circut, of course do this when it's unplugged. Or the way I was taught>>plug it in wait 10 minutes then crawl under there to see if it's warm. Caution it maybe more than warm don't burn your hand.
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#4
Wed, January 6th, 2010, 09:59 AM
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DVOM (multimeter) on ohms scale across the two flat plug-in terminals....you're looking for 12-14 ohms.
__________________
Tuning, flashing, burning chips, and repairing all aspects of 7.3L Powerstrokes. SEVEN 7.3L-powered vehicles in the driveway. Two didn't come that way from the factory!
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#5
Wed, January 6th, 2010, 07:14 PM
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Ok so I left my block heater plugged in all day today and just went and started the truck and I am going to assume that it isnt working because there was nothing different upon startup. How do I go about fixing this?
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#7
Wed, January 6th, 2010, 09:29 PM
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You HAVE to see if you have continuity through the cord and heater. That's the absolute first step after you make sure you've got power to the end of the extension cord.
Use an ohm meter (digital multimeters work the best). Set the scale to ohms (looks like a little horse shoe). Put one lead on one flat spade (doesn't matter which) and the other lead on the other spade (DO NOT TOUCH BOTH LEADS with your bare fingers..you'll get an inaccurate reading). If the meter says anything other than 11-13 ohms, something's bad. ZERO ohms is a short and you probably don't have any power through your extension cord due to a tripped breaker. More ohms or "infinite" (like what the meter reads when the leads aren't hooked to anything) means that either the cord is bad or the heating element has an open circuit. To test the cord, unplug it from the block heater element (you'll see where it goes into the side of the engine just above the oil filter) and test each lead through the cord. An easy way to do this is to put a paper clip through the holes in each of the flat spades on the cord effectively shorting them together. Using the ohm meter, get under the truck and test between the two "eyes" of the round plug. If you don't have continuity, then the cord is bad. If you have continuity (around 0-2 ohms) then the heating element is bad. If you're quick, you can change the element without losing more than a cup or two of coolant. Let us know what you come up with.
__________________
Tuning, flashing, burning chips, and repairing all aspects of 7.3L Powerstrokes. SEVEN 7.3L-powered vehicles in the driveway. Two didn't come that way from the factory!
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#8
Mon, January 11th, 2010, 02:59 PM
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Quote:
__________________
Chuck 1992 Calypso Green Mustang notch 1995 Mustang GT 2004 Explorer Limited A veteran is someone who, at one point in one's life, wrote a blank check made payable to 'The United States of America', for an amount of 'up to and including my life'. That is honor, and there are way too many people in this country who no longer understand it. -Author Unknown
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