Differences in tunes within same category

[Aaron B.]

I've been contemplating a tuner for some time, and after a lot of research - I can't find a negative review on PHP. That, and the transparency in which PHP answers customers questions on a public forum(s), gives me confidence in their products. From what I can tell, Bill and his team address the entire operating process of the truck when writing tunes, not just making big HP numbers.

Regarding the Phoenix chip for a 7.3, I have a few questions on the particulars of different tunes within the same category, i.e. 65DD vs 80DD. Reliability and longevity are my primary concerns. I realize there is an inherent risk for ANY modification to these trucks, but it seems there is a lot of unused power in these engines that can be extracted while still maintaining a wide margin of reliability that the 7.3 is known for.

My truck is a daily driver, and will be pulling a ~11K lb load several times a month for short trips on level ground, and probably a few extended trips pulling lighter loads in the 7K lb range but through some decent grades. It is completely stock, except for an EGT/Boost/Trans Temp gauge pod.

Daily Driving - 65hp vs 80hp. Looking for better drivability, and any potential mileage increases. I have no problem giving up "15" hp for a more conservative tune, better mileage, and less stress on the engine. I guess my question is what are the differences between the two? If 15 hp was free, there wouldn't be a 65hp, so who is the lower tune for? It seems that everyone gets the 80hp for daily driving.

Towing - I think I have a good handle on the tow tunes. It seems that the 40hp Heavy Tow would be perfect for my heavy loads, and the 65hp Moderate Tow would be good for my lighter loads. If EGTs start to run high on the moderate tow, I could always turn it down to the heavy tow.

Performance - I'm not concerned with racing anyone, and even considered not even getting a higher tune than the daily driver. But, if it's there, and there is minimal risk to the engine, it might be fun to play with once in a while. 65/80/100 - Similar question to my daily driver question, what do I give up by going to the hotter tunes?

[cleatus12r]

The differences in the 65DD and 80DD are just that....15 HP when you have your foot to the wood.

The only time I really recommend the 65DD tune is when the customer is not interested in the 120R or higher. The differences in power between the 80DD and the 100P are not enough to justify both tunes, although the shifting characteristics between the two are very different.

Since you are interested in the 100P (which is a VERY good performing tune with minimal smoke), I would recommend the 65DD tune. The accelerator pedal feel and shifting are identical to the 80DD save for the last 2/3 accelerator pedal input (which if you're going for mileage and efficiency, you won't ever touch that amount anyway).

Your thoughts on the towing tunes are spot-on. No comment needed.

Anything "hotter" than the 100P program is simply fuelling more heavily down low. The stock injectors are not good for much over an additional 100 rear wheel horsepower anyway, so the 120 and 140 tunes simply add more fuel off the line.

[Aaron B.]

Understood - the additional tunes are there to avoid excessive overlap between the highest tune in one category, and the lowest tune in the next category. Sounds like 65DD is a good fit for me, and 100P is there if I ever want to step it up a notch. Thanks for the explanation.

One more sort of general question regarding reliability. The extra 60, 70, 100 hp PHP and other tuners are getting out of a stock 7.3 - was Ford overly conservative in the OEM tuning, and the extra power is available with minimal or even trivial consequence to the engine? Or is there a pretty proportional relationship between extra power and decreasing longevity? Obviously PHP has a lot of satisfied customers, and I read that PHP is one of the more conservative tuners. Just curious about PHP's opinion on how much there tunes use of the 7.3's reliability margin, if any at all assuming normal driving and regular maintenance.

[cleatus12r]

Ford's tuning, albeit a bit weak, was also designed to fit into certain EPA emission standards. Also, the engineers who tuned the PCM didn't have the benefit of true 3D mapping capabilities so there are a few "rough edges" to smooth out.

Regardless of who "tunes" the truck, there is always going to be more stress in the drive train. There are trucks running around that left the dealer lot with aftermarket calibrations and have since run hundreds of thousands of miles. It all depends on how you drive it.

[Aaron B.]

Gotcha, thanks for the insight into the OEM calibration. You don't increase component life by adding stress - just trying to gauge how far if at all the needle is moving in the other direction. You are right, the driver's right foot will be the dominant factor.